Aeration: - essential factor to aquarium fish

As we all know rivers and lakes are the natural habits for fish and other marines. Rivers and lakes have large surface area which makes maximum provision of oxygen for fish survival possible. On the other hand aquarium is not like river or lake, it has a smaller surface area and there is limited movement of habitats.

This makes provision of alternative means of oxygen for fish to breathe important. This artificial process of providing oxygen is called aeration. It's a simple process of re-oxygenating the water in aquarium tank.

The Aerating System:

This is the series of material that increases the supply of air (thereby increasing oxygen concentration) they are:
the air pump
t-pieces
rubber tubing
clamp or regulator
diffusers or airstone

Air pumps come in different shapes and sizes but the most popular ones are tecax air pump from Taiwan together with 'dyna free, and the dragon' another popular one is super 555 from India though cheaper, but not as rugged. Occasionally available are the more expensive whisper and rens air pumps from Uk and rance respectively. Always place air pumps above the water level hooked to a non-vibrating material.

You can accomplish aeration in your aquarium tank by using the above listed aeration materials. This materials form aeration system. For small tanks all you need is to attach simple aquarium air pump to airstone by means of rubber air tube. The system will be blowing air into the water which cause motion in aquarium tank and thus provide necessary oxygen your fish needs to breathe in aquarium.
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Fresh Water Aquarium

Lighting of Your Aquarium

Why Lighting?

The simplest, most economic choice of lighting is sunlight. No tech aquarium folks believe there is no substitute. For many applications, aquarium lighting demands specific technology.

When you heat something, that something's temperature goes up. At room temperature, this something will emit energy in the infrared (below red) range of light. However, hotter things emit light in the visible range (red to violet). Even hotter things may emit ultraviolet (above violet) light as well. The sun's light is yellow. So, if you need something other than yellow light, then you need aquarium lighting.

What Lighting

Manufacturers standardize the spectrum of lamps using corrected olor temperature ratings (K) and color rendering indexes (CRIs). The K part tells you what color it looks like and the CRI part tells you how much it looks like that color.

Fluorescent

Fluorescent lamps create large voltages across metal gases (fluors) in a coated tube. The electricity ionizes the gases and excites electrons in the gas. When these electrons relax, a little packet of light comes out called a photon. The coating on the tube is a material that absorbs UV light, and emits visible light. This coating largely determines the color of your lamp.

The phosphors degrade with use, and blue light intensity drops more quickly than red. So, lamps get darker and redder as time goes on. To maintain the blue and purple of a reef aquarium, lamps need to be changed at least twice a year; whereas the same aquarium may have red night lights that last a whole year.

There are only a few types of phosphors available. Many manufacturers use several coatings of different phosphors to achieve a balanced look. To achieve the most natural look, try to put as many different types of lamps in the canopy as possible. Most special bulbs accomplish the same thing as buying two daylight lamps and one cool white lamp (for example). The advantage to these special bulbs is that many people only have room for one lamp. There are exceptions to this rule and the number is growing, as some companies design aquarium lighting from the ground up instead of adapting existing technology to their needs.

The diameter of a lamp is very important. As the diameter increases, fabricating an effective reflector becomes increasingly difficult. The closer to a line source, where the diameter of the lamp is zero, the more effective a reflector will behave.

Balasts are designed for specific lamp types, and choosing a lamp also means limiting your choice of ballasts. The ballast determines the current and voltage to the lamp. A quality ballast will quickly pay for itself in reduced power bills and prolonged lamp life. Some ballasts have the option to attach a manual dimmer to the ballast. In conjunction with a timer, these ballasts can ramp light on and off to avoid the sudden firing of the lamp. Also, choosing a water proof ballast may come in handy.

Metal Halide

Metal halide lamps are essentially little fluorescent lamps on steroids. The metal halide gases are stored inside a coated quartz tube. This quartz is inside a glass shield to absorb UV light and provide a barrier if the quartz tube explodes. Instead of current flowing through the gas, the current actually arcs. This means higher temperatures and voltages. As such, metal halide lamps take a minute to start and then a few minutes to warm up. Basically, the ballast must start the arc and then vaporize everything inside the quartz sleeve. Probe start lamps have a small electrode inside the quartz tube to assist the firing the lamp. Pulse start lamps rely on the ballast to pulse the quartz tube to fire the lamp. Metal halide ballasts cannot be dimmed, unlike other types of lighting.

The color of the lamp is determined by the makeup of the halides and the phosphors coating the quartz tube. Pulse start lamps have a higher CRI, because the ballast is more gentle on the gases inside the quartz tube. Color ranges are nearly identical to fluorescent tubes; however, there are more options along the way. Metal halide lamps should last six months to a year. The blues in a metal halide lamp degrade very quickly. The most efficient metal halide lamps are near daylight. Because of this, many reefs rely on metal halide lamps for the daylight colors and fluorescent lamps for the purple and blue.

LEDs

Light emitting diodes have come leaps and bounds recently. By 2008, new technology is scheduled to outperform all others (lumens per watt, lumens per dollar). There are still a handful of issues with LEDs, namely startup cost and color options. LEDs emit light in a very narrow range of colors, and the exact range of that color really depends on the batch and bin of the manufacturer. Also, initial costs of LED's are quite high. Although, an individual LED is expected to have a lifetime of about ten years.

A handful of manufacturers sell LED lighting for the aquarium, but the nature of the wiring demands that an entire array of LEDs be replaced if a single burns out. And if you don't replace the single array, then the others are not far behind. Thus, the benefits of LEDs are completely avoided. Basically, to save about 30% of the manufacturer's costs, they ask you to replace $100 of LEDs when you really only need $5 replaced. A difficult fact to swallow when you're already paying five to ten times as much as another technology, for the same amount of lighting.

One advantage of using LED lighting is the ability to program lighting intensity. The moon cycle, the seasons, cloud cover, sunrise, sunset, and anything else can be programmed into the lighting routine. This possibilities are huge with LEDs.

Ventilation

Lights are not 100% efficient. Therefore, lights create heat. This heat must be removed. If no efforts at ventilation are made, the the heat escapes via radiation. This may be adequate if the lamps are efficient and were designed to operate at elevated temperatures. Otherwise, ventilation may be required.

Simply drilling an array of holes above the lamps allows heat to escape through convection. This is adequate for most applications. However, often active ventilation is required. This involves placing a fan at either an input, an output, or both. If you are designing your own system, the ventilation that cools the lights can also be used to cool the aquarium water.

The Best Options

If you decide on the number of lumens you need, and then work backwards to how many lamps you need, then metal halide comes out on top. A metal halide lamp run by a pulse start electronic ballast puts out more lumens per watt and more lumens per dollar. However, in the next three months, the lamp's luminosity decreases by 35%. In the same time, a T5 lamp's luminosity will only decrease by about 6%. Also, consider that a quality reflector will direct about 80% of a metal halide lamps luminosity to the aquarium. A quality reflector for a T5 will direct over 90% of the light back. Notice, that the reflectivity of a reflector does not determine the amount of light reflected, but rather the probability an incident photon will be reflected. When you run the numbers again, T5 lighting comes out on top, by about 15%. Measurements with a light meter agree.

For a reef aquarium, most people want at least one metal halide. The real reason: metal halides look really cool. Reef aquariums usually have strong currents and surface waves. Metal halide lamps will make your reef sparkle, just like a real reef. Also, a single metal halide can provide a decent spectrum, whereas you really need at least two different color fluorescent lamps.

Compact fluorescent lamps provide a great alternative to T5 and metal halide lighting for smaller tanks. Reflectors must reflect light from more than one tube, which means that compact fluorescent lamps won't perform as well as the corresponding straight tube lamps. However, bulb costs are lower, as a compact fluorescent lamp is essentially a longer lamp that is bent around.

By 2008, Atlanta Aquascapes plans on releasing a new LED lighting system for aquariums. This system will outperform all other lighting in terms of light output, light quality, and long term costs.

If you are looking for an economic option, then your local hardware store is the best place to start. Flat white paint has a reflectivity of about 95%, which is quite high. If you still have your high school geometry book, then you should be able to make your own reflector as well. Just find something relatively sturdy that you can cut with a razor. Watch out for silver materials when making a reflector. Some are excellent reflectors, and others are terrible.

Designing Your Own Aquarium

Aquarium Setup and Design

Dimensions

Tank dimensions are determined by the individuals inside your aquarium. Some fish require swimming space, and the length of the tank may be important. Some corals require intense light, and the height of the tank may be important. Some plants grow like bushes, and the width of the tank may be important. Also, the surface area of the bottom influences how much substrate and lighting you will need. Finally, the volume of the tank determines the flow rate through the circulation systems and filtration systems.

Lighting:

Choose lamps based upon the luminosity (lumens), the color (spectra), and power (watts). The best choice for your lighting will match the needs of any photosynthetic individuals' spectra, provide the most luminosity, and consume the least power. Both fluorescent and metal halide lamps excite electrons bound to certain chemicals. When these electrons relax, the lamp emits light of distinct wavelengths. There are very few options for these chemicals. As a result, most lamps contain varying amounts of the same chemicals.

Fluorescent tubes emit light from the surface of a long cylinder. Avoid spirals or other strange shapes when purchasing a fluorescent lamp. Choose parabolic reflectors designed for lamps of your radius. Compact fluorescent lamps will never work as well as the equivalent straight tubes. Metal halide lamps emit light from a line source, which in turn excites a small cylinder to emit light. Because of this complexity, reflectors are designed for very specific metal halide lamps types. If possible, decide upon a particular lamp make and model and then choose the best reflector for that lamp.

All lamps are designed to operate at specific temperature. Achieving this may involve adding ventilation to your lighting or purchasing a chiller. If all else fails, you may try redirecting your HVAC to supply air, return air, or both.

As to date, the most efficient lighting available is german made T5 fluorescent lamps under parabolic reflectors. The spectra are also very impressive. American LED manufacturers have made leaps and bounds, with the introduction of new designs that come within 15% of the efficiency of T5 lamps in 2006. LEDs are rarely chosen because of high initial costs; however, long run costs of LED systems are significantly lower.

Metal halides are an attractive option for reef aquariums because they are almost a point source. If you disturb the water's surface, then a metal halide will sparkle, similar to how sunlight appears on the bottom of a pool on a bright, windy day. Keep in mind that only the light from the metal halide will sparkle, and choose your color spectrum accordingly if you also will use fluorescent lamps.

Filtration

Mechanical filters remove material from the water column by physically separating the material from the rest of the water. This separation allows easy removal of this material. There are several methods of mechanical filtration: sudden decreases in the linear velocity of water as the flow passes a drain, trapping the material in another, inert material, or foam fractionation (protein skimmer). Mechanical filters can easily be automated to minimize maintenance.

Chemical filters either selectively partition chemicals onto a surface or react with chemicals in the water column. Chemical filtration requires regular replacing or recharging of media.

Biological filtration is, in essence an integration of chemical and mechanical filtration via individuals within your aquarium, or connected to the aquarium through plumbing.

Protein skimmers are best suited for fish only tanks. Natural reefs rely on tiny particles and individuals to increase biomass. Protein skimmers are extremely efficient at removing tiny particles from the water column. As such, protein skimmers often starve a reef aquarium.

UV sterilizers are work horses in many setups. They really belong under lighting, but are considered filters by most. UV sterilizers destroy some of the nucleic acids that pass through. If enough nucleic acids are destroyed, then the individual cannot reproduce and is sterile. Use UV sterilizers with care, as they can do more harm than good.

Circulation and Aeration

The water in the aquarium can be thought of as two systems: the bulk and the surface. Water circulation is best accomplished with external pumps. Placing electric motors inside the water column also places electric fields inside the water column, which can distress a large number of individuals.

To achieve similar water quality throughout the aquarium requires proper circulation. Not only is volumetric flow (GPH, LPH) important, but the linear velocity (mph, m/s) of flow is also important. The velocity of water determines what reaches your filter in the first place, and individuals within the aquarium experience linear velocity, not volumetric flow. Choose pumps on the inside diameter of the suction and pressure side, the power (watts), and the volumetric flow (GPH). Be careful, different manufacturers may report their numbers in different units or at different head heights. I've found that each manufacturer has several basic designs that they scale their models from. From each line, a single model will perform most efficiently. Rarely will each model in a line outperform all models in a competing line.

Reef aquariums often require pulse flow. Placing a mechanical device in line can change the direction and/or intensity of circulation. Programmable devices can fine tune the on/off cycles to your liking, but ensure you purchase a pump that is designed for frequent stopping and starting.

The surface provides gas exchange with the surroundings. If the surface of the water is not turned over, then undesirable individuals may grow thin colonies on the surface of the water. These colonies may inhibit gas exchange and block lighting to the rest of the aquarium. Make sure you have something that only filters the surface of the water called an overflow.

Aeration may be achieved entirely with good air flow over a clean surface of water. If photosynthesis increases the partial pressure of oxygen above that of the surroundings, then aeration may not be required. In such cases, separating the aquarium from the surrounding air may improve the water quality.

Ventilation

An unsealed aquarium exchanges all gases including water with the surroundings. Individuals in the water and owner dosing impart a concentration gradient upon a number of chemicals within the water. Blowing or sucking air across the surface of the water will decrease this concentration gradient. Increased evaporation will also cool water.

Ventilation offers an economic opportunity to dose an aquarium. Evaporation removes only water, but leaves the dissolved chemicals behind The evaporated water can be replaced by water high in nutrients for plants or a reef. By increasing the evaporation rate, the maximum rate of dosing is also increased.

Substrate

The substrate at the bottom of the aquarium can serve many purpose other than aesthetics. In planted aquariums, the substrate provides rooted plants with chemicals not available to individuals in the water column. If you have an undergravel filter, then the substrate doubles as a filter media. If you do not have an undergravel filter, then the electrochemistry of ion exchange changes dramatically with deeper substrates. Because of this, many chemical reactions take place which would not take place if water circulated through the substrate. For example, iron uptake by plant roots becomes easier, but so does the production of methane. In a reef aquarium, the substrate may become a host to a variety of individuals and acts as biological filtration. Similarly, care must be taken in a reef aquarium as deep sand beds have very low reduction-oxidation potentials. Very scary chemistry can build up and release all at once.

The Elements

Oxygen is the most important molecule in water. Proper aeration, photosynthetic individuals, compressed gas, or ozone generators may be employed to elevate oxygen levels. The last two methods can overdose with oxygen or ozone and elevate the reduction-oxidation potential too much, essentially rusting individuals in your tank. Ensure that if a control system fails then the maximum dosage rate will not be toxic.

Carbon comes in many forms. Plants need carbon to thrive. The simplest type of carbon added to aquariums is carbon dioxide. Many people buy pressurized CO2 in cylinders, culture yeast to ferment, or make it electrochemically, then plumb this to the circulation system. A few plants actually use bicarbonate instead of carbonic acid, which means you can actually fertilize with baking soda. Another option is to overstock the tank with fish, who will provide an abundance of CO2. This option requires a hefty filter and more frequent water changes. Reef aquariums often use carbon dioxide to elevate calcium levels in reactors. This addition must be offset to avoid low pH, and magnesium sulfate is an attractive option. Elevated carbonate concentration (with calcium) in a reef allows individuals to precipitate calcium carbonate, a necessity of many individuals. Adequate turnover of the water, ventilation, protein skimming, and surface disturbances decrease the difference between carbon dioxide pressure in the air and in the water.

Nitrogen is essential for every aquarium. Ultimately, nitrogen is important to make proteins, nucleic acids, and other biomolecules. The source may be an amino acid or a nitrogenous base, but more than likely it is either reduced or oxidized nitrogen. Common reduced nitrogen compounds are ammonia, ammonium, and urea. Reduced nitrogen should be kept at low levels. Oxidized nitrogen is commonly referred to nitrites and nitrates, but most test kits fortunately measure other chemicals as well. Nitrogen should be present in your aquarium's water in at least one form. Potassium nitrate is an extremely economic option. Biological filters, quality protein skimmers, and chemical absorbants are effective at removing nitrogen almost entirely from the water colony.

Calcium is important to all aquatic life. Quality plant fertilizers will ensure planted aquariums have plenty of calcium. For a reef aquarium, calcium is quickly consumed. Calcium reactors are effective at maintaining calcium in the water column, but pH must be offset as discussed under carbon. Calcium chloride does not affect pH, and chloride is reef safe. Saturating top off water with a mixture of calcium chloride and calcium carbonate should maintain both calcium and carbonate levels. Calcium salts can precipitate in the water column and test should be performed before adding calcium to the aquarium.

Potassium is the single most overlooked chemical in a planted aquarium. Plants must either take in new potassium of destroy old tissue to continue growing. There are no known negative issues with elevated potassium.

Iron is a tricky one. Iron may be the oldest chemical of life, and cells use iron to maintain the proper reduction-oxidation potential. Iron exists in two states in the aquarium: Fe(II) is missing two electrons and Fe(III) is missing three electrons. Fe(III) is not readily water soluble, so individuals must usually add an electron to Fe(III) before placing it into service. Adding electrons becomes easier as the reduction-oxidation potential decreases. For many planted aquariums, the substrate serves largely for cation exchange between the water and the plants' roots to aid in iron metabolism. Anything from (perfume free) kitty litter to expensive substrates taylor made and color matched will work, depending on your standards of aesthetics. UV sterilizers quickly remove all iron from the water column.

Magnesium in water is depleted slowly by reefs and is essential to a reef's growth. Buying a calcium additive with magnesium may be enough, or you can buy magnesium chloride which is readily soluble in water or magnesium sulfate.

Iodide and strontium are extremely important for most invertebrates, especially reef invertebrates. Typical levels are very low. Concentrations can be maintained by comprehensive additives or by buying plant cell culture tested compounds in bulk.

Phosphate biochemistry is extremely intricate. Phosphates are required for all life, but are typically limited in reef and marine aquariums to avoid algae growth. Planted aquariums require phosphorous, and its exclusion has become popular. However, phosphate buffers are frequently employed in growing aquatic plants on a large scale. Tap water usually requires enough phosphate for the planted aquarium, or you can dose with different salts depending on your tank's pH. Chemical media, downforce protein skimmers, and biological filters remove phosphate.

Silicates are a favorite of diatoms. In either freshwater or saltwater, elevated silicates results in algae. Diatoms can extract silica from glass. Chemical media and downforce skimmers remove silica. Often, the same media removes phosphates

Chloride is extremely important to freshwater plants. Chloride is readily available in most water sources. Do not confuse with chloramine, which is also available in most water sources but is dangerous.

Conclusions

In general try to avoid taking material out of the aquarium. An excellent example would be to run foam fractionation (skimmer) on a sump, send the top fraction to a phytoplankton culture, have the phytoplankton overflow into a refugium, have the refugium empty into the display tank, which overflows into the sump. Each separate container would have its own lighting, substrate, and circulation. In this way, you really never have to add anything to the tank except water. The only cost is power, water, and lamps. Additives can be homemade by removing excess algae and aragonite and grinding them in a mortar and pestle.

Another example is a planted aquarium. A single display tank, a quality canister filter, a reverse flow under gravel filter, and fluorite ore substrate takes care of itself. Just replace evaporated water with water rich in potassium and phosphates, over feed the fish, and replace the lamps and filter floss twice a year. Plants take care of the rest.

Also, avoid adding extra heat to the aquarium. Use external pumps instead of powerheads. Acrylic aquariums can easily be machined to accept standard plumbing fittings. Make sure your plumbing has long radius turns and clean walls. Cooling your lights helps prolong lamp life and lowers water temperature. Place your heater inline with circulation plumbing. Make sure the entire tank is circulated. Dead spots make scary chemistry.

Many of the products available are marketed very, very well but provide little advantage if any to a less expensive alternative. So keep your wits about you and do your homework. In the end, your pets will be happier, your aquarium will look better, and you will spend less money.

Atlanta Aquascapes

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Planted Aquarium and Substrate

Two concepts are very important when choosing a substrate for the planted aquarium: circulation and ion exchange.

Circulatoin

Circulation in the substrate can be totally passive, meaning that nothing is done to move water across the plants' roots. A popular option is to heat the bottom of the aquarium in an effort to move water from the bottom of the tank to the top. The third option is to actually plumb water to below the substrate and force circulation, known as undergravel filters.

Without any circulation in the substrate, an extremely low reduction-oxidation potential develops. Oxygen is readily depleted, and there is no way of replacing the oxygen except diffusion. Life in the substrate starts relying on chemical reactions very foreign to the ones above the substrate. If the substrate is too fine, then the products of these chemical reactions may buildup inside the substrate and burst to the surface all at once. In open waters, gases belch through the mud constantly, but the reduction-oxidation potential is safe because of such large water volume and surface area. If this happens in an aquarium, then the reduction-oxidation potential of the aquarium water will drop suddenly. The solution is to simply use coarse gravel, or to rely on technology to circulate the water.

Heating the bottom of the aquarium circulates water through the roots and also hides the heater from plain view. Giving your plants hot feet is thought to improve their health by many hobbyists; however, there is no reason other than speculation to believe so. Heating cables are often very expensive, especially compared to other styles.

Traditionally, the undergravel filter bubbled air up a tube connected to an empty grated box below the substrate. As the air rises, water rises with it. This water then leaves the tube, and water is drawn in from the grated box to replace that water. This filtration method was attractive because is was so inexpensive. Any debris in the water column eventually ended up on the bottom, which could be siphoned out of the aquarium. To achieve better turnover, use a powerhead to move water up the tube.

For the planted aquarium, the reverse flow under gravel filter (RUGF) may be the single most overlooked option. The real advantage to a RUGF is that water can be plumbed from the surface and bulk to under the gravel with ease. Once plants take hold, then debris from the aquarium becomes fertilizers for the plants. Combined with a canister filter, you have the best filter setup for the planted aquarium. There is no maintenance, no expensive gravels, and nearly upkeep costs. The water stays perfectly still while still being turned over every 2 hours or so. The reduction-oxidation potential in the substrate still drops below that in the water, but the difference is nearly zero. If you use a setup like this, then dosing with iron fertilizers is a must, as plants' roots won't be as efficient at iron uptake. The biggest downfall is that manufacturers who offer a RUGF for planted aquariums charge big bucks, and making your own can be challenging and unattractive.

Ion exchange

A plant's health relies on the substrate to exchange cations with both its roots and the water. So, a setup with no circulation with the bulk of the water must have an extremely high cation exchange capability. Also, without circulation in the roots, organic substrates rich in nutrients can be used, or actual plant soils and fertilizers can be placed in the substrate. Just make sure that the substrate is never disturbed and has plenty of larger rocks throughout.

With the hot feet option, substrates are pretty much the same as without any circulation. However, if you use nutrient rich substrates with a heating cable, then expect nutrients to find their way into the water column. Make sure you have some plants that take their nutrients from the water column to avoid algae blooms.

Undergravel filters require larger substrate, and avoid using too much organic material. There are a variety of attractive inert gravels out there made for the planted aquarium. Fluorite is an excellent option, and I like to mix about a cup of peat per 5 gallons of fluorite with an undergravel filter. But, I've also had great success with regular aquarium gravel, nothing else.

Best Bet

Plumb an overflow to a canister filter, to a heater, to a carbon dioxide reactor, to an undergravel filter. With this setup, the water chemistry throughout the entire setup is almost identical. The tank circulates top to bottom, evenly. Adding small amount of fertilizers frequently will be required for good growth, and this can be automated easily.

Substrate choice is largely aesthetics in this setup, so expensive gravels may look better and be the right choice, or that mixture of lavender and hot pink gravel may be just. Although substrates with high cation exchange capabilities will outperform regular gravel, this can be offset by increasing volumetric flow under the gravel.

Atlanta Aquascapes

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Caring Betta Fish

10 Tips to caring for your Betta Fish

Betta fish, also called Siamese fighting fish. are one of the most popular types of fish found in homes across the world. Their vibrant color and active lifestyle seems to draw in fish fanatics as well as those who have never had fish before. Betta’s are relatively easy to care for and their low maintenance is particularly appealing to people who would like to have fish but don’t have a lot of time to care for them.

Once you bring your Betta’s home you should begin to familiarize yourself with their movements and typical behavior patterns. When you look at your fish after you’ve had them for awhile you’ll know if something is wrong, if they are not feeling well, or if the water in their bowl is not in the best condition simply by being observant.

1. Make sure the jar or bowl that you keep your Betta in is big enough so that he can swim around and not bump or tear his fins or scales. Also be sure there is plenty of surface area so that he can get enough oxygen.

2. Your Betta will thrive in the cleanest water that you can provide for him. He does not require a filtration system, but you should change out a third of his water every three days so it stays fresh and clean and keeps your finned friend from getting bacterial or fungal infections. Aged water (water that has set out for twenty four hours) is what should be used to replace the old water.

3. Do not put your Betta fish with other Betta’s. They are called Siamese fighting fish because they are, in fact, fighting fish. They will tear at one another, often causing the death of at least one fish before they stop. Betta’s can be coupled with algae eaters, guppies, or corydorus catfish safely.

4. Use a turkey baster to clean small particles of uneaten food or debris from the bottom of the bowl or jar. Allowing this debris to sit at the bottom of the jar will cause the water to become cloudy, unsanitary, and to smell awful.

5. The PH of your tank should be at exactly 7.0. You can get a PH testing kit at your pet store along with solutions to minimize or increase the PH of your water.

6. When you clean the plants, rocks, or decorations in the bowl you should never use soap on them. It’s very hard to completely rinse all soap from these items and the soap residue can harm or even kill your Betta. Instead, use warm water and an abrasive brush to clean his things.

7. Keep your Betta tank, jar, or bowl covered! Your Beta will jump and you don’t want him to end up flopping on the tabletop! Keeping the water level at least two inches from the top of the tank should also cut down on this problem.

8. Your Betta is a meat eater and likes live foods, such as brine shrimp the best. Frozen bloodworms are also a good choice for your meat eater. Most Betta fish will happily eat the Betta pellets sold at most pet stores. For a special treat every now and again you should offer some live food! You’ll have fun watching him eat it up!

9. Do not decorate your Betta bowl with rocks or marbles that may cause your Betta to get stuck between or under them. Be sure that they are a flat smooth surface that provides no risk to the health of your fish.

10. Remember that your fish is a living, breathing responsibility. You need to feed, clean, and care for your Betta just like you would any other pet. If he’s sick take him to the vet, if he’s hungry feed him, if his home is dirty, clean it.
That’s it! These ten tips for caring for your Betta fish will have you well on your way to keeping a healthy fish.

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Keeping Arowana

Data Sheet

Scientific Name: Scleropages Formosus
Other Names: Arawana, Dragon Fish
Family: Osteoglossidae
Origin: Asia, Australia, Africa,
Adult Size: 90cm (55-58 inches)
Social: Predatory fish that will eat up smaller fishes. Highly territorial
Lifespan: 10-20 years.
Tank Level: mid-top dweller.
Minimum Tank Size: At least 3 times the width of your Arowana, and width same as Arowana length.
Diet:
Eats anything - live crickets, tapdoles, small frogs, small fishes, shrimps etc.
Breeding: Mouthbrooder
Care: Easy - Hardly fish
Ideal pH: 6.5-7
Temperature: 75-85 F (24-29C)
Tank setup: No plants or rocks recommended as this fish needs lots of space and plants and rocks may get in their way.
Sexing:
The male's mouth is wider and deeper.

Description:

In this family of fishes, the head is bony and the elongate body is covered by large, heavy scales, with a mosaic pattern of canals. The dorsal and the anal fins have soft rays and are long based, while the pectoral and ventral fins are small. The name 'bony tongues' is derived from a toothed bone on the floor of the mouth, the 'tongue', equipped with teeth that bite against teeth on the roof of the mouth.

Habitat/Care:

In the wild, the Arowanas prefers to stay in shallow waters (above five feet deep), near riverbanks and in shaded areas. Arowanas prefer these areas not because they are avoiding the elements, but because insects are plentiful in shaded areas and these are their main source of food.
Mixing with other fishes:

Medium to Large bottom feeders are ideal tank mates for the Arowana. The Arowana will leave these bottom feeders alone. Other peaceful large fish may be safety kept with Arowana. Take care not to include fin-nippers with the Arowana. Smaller fish that will fit into the Arowana mouth will be eaten.

Arowanas are generally highly territorial and will not tolerate another Arowana in a small tank. In a large open pond, however, it has been noted that several Arowanas can be safety kept together. Wikipedia recommends that 5-6 Arowanas should be kept together in a tank instead of 2-3 as when in a group, their aggressiveness tends to be subdued.

Diet:

Arowana prefer live food or at the very least floating food. They will generally not eat from the bottom of the tank. To this end keeping your Arowana with a suitable bottom feeder may be a good idea.

These foods can include: worms, crickets, grasshoppers, locus, fly, small frogs, small fish (limited quantities) and shrimps with shells. Some Arowana may take floating fish food.

Some foods help to promote a good colour in your fish. Prawns contain cerotine which helps bring out the red and gold colours of the Arowana fish. It is recommended however to maintain a varied and balanced diet for any Arowana Fish.

Feeding patterns effect both size and colour of your Arowana Fish. Over feeding can make your fish grow faster however this may adversely affect both colour and long term health of the fish. Since the size, colour and health of your fish are all very important, you are advised not to regularly overfeed any Arowana Fish.

Folklore:

For the Chinese, the dragon is a symbol of good luck and prosperity. In the eyes of the Chinese, the dragon fish has the appearance and majesty of the Chinese Dragon, especially the scales - it resembles the scales of a Dragon.

When a Chinese businessman purchased one of these fishes, then strike a big fortune, the rumor mills were working overtime that he attribute his good luck to owning one of these fish. Soon, demand for this fish rocketed as many others hope that keeping a dragon fish will bring them luck.

There are 3 types of Asian Arowana - the Red, Gold and Green. For the Chinese, Red is a lucky color, as evidenced by the large amount of red used during Chinese New Year. This makes the Red dragon fish in high demand, and prices for a good quality red can easily fetch around SG$8,888/=. Gold is also considered lucky. However, it is surprising that Green variety is not very popular and is consider unlucky, especially in Cantonese speaking countries like Hong Kong, Shenzhen and Guangzhou. The Cantonese who keep a green Arowana in their home and often gamble are said to "shee tou meen cheang cheang" (lost till their faces turn green).

Breeding:

Between 30 to 40 Arowanas between the ages of five and seven, half of them male, half of them female were released in a pond. They were left in the pond to allow them to pair themselves off, while the fish farmers observed from afar with binocular.

After sometime (between one and six months): compatible male and female Arowanas couple by themselves. However, this does not mean that with 30 to 40 Arowanas, you will see 15 to 20 pairs. On the contrary, it is sometimes impossible to get even one pair.

The farmers continued to keep a close watch on the pair. The males are mouth brooders, and will keep the eggs and fry in the mouth. Sometime later, the male was seen releasing young Arowanas from his mouth for between three and five minutes before drawing them back into his mouth again. At this stage, a net was dropped into the pond to segregate the couple and their young from the other Arowanas. After the young were free-swimming, they were netted and kept in separate tanks to grown individually, feeding on bloodworms.

Observations have shown that the female Arowana spawns once a year and each successful spawn produces between 30 and 80 young.

Illness:

Basically, the Arowana is a very hardy fish; even for first time fish owners. However, due to unsuitable water conditions, poor diet, high nitrate levels, etc., illnesses like bulging eye, cloudy eye, gillc-urling, external parasites, fin rot, dropsy and internal bleeding may occur. Watch out for the last two symptoms as they are likely to be fatal.

In all cases, raise the water temperature to 34 degree Celsius and add about 0.03% salt to the water (i.e. 300g of salt for 100litres of water). It is often helpful to add a wide spectrum medicine with anti-bacterial or anti-parasitic compounds. Medicines like tetracycline, acfriflavine may also help.

One point to note: do not be too concerned over fin rot caused by fighting. Even in cases where extensive damage to the whole tail has been done, the recovery period is only a matter of weeks.
Variants:

* Asian Arowana - are the most expensive of all because they are near-extinct . They are protected species and mainly from Thailand , Sumatra and Malaysia . Asian Arowana have three main colors - Red , Gold and Green.
* Australia Arowana - originated from Australia and they look similar to Asian Arowana . Australia Arowana got two types - Pearl and Spotted Arowana . Both looked the same except for the scales and colors. There are even Red or Gold Pearl Arowana.
* Silver Arowana - is the most common Arowana. It is also the cheapest. Silver Arowana have long fin and tail with its whole body silver in color. It can grow up to a very large size about 49 inches!
* Black Arowana - is the same as Silver Arowana but its fin and tail are black-color. Black Arowana are harder to raise than Silver Arowana.

Article Source: http://www.articlefishtalk.com

Tips: Setting Up New Tank

Setting up

• Set the tank up at least a few days before buying fish. This will give the water time to stabilise and allow time for checking that everything is working properly.

• Once the tank has been positioned, a background of some sort can be fitted. As well as being more appealing than seeing the wall behind the tank, a background will make fish feel more secure because they are not 'exposed' on all sides.

• Wash the substrate material thoroughly before adding to the tank. This can be achieved by washing half a bucket of gravel/sand at a time under running water. Stir the gravel or sand around by hand, pouring off the water until it runs clear.
  If you are intending to use undergravel filtration (UGF), you will of course need to position the undergravel plates before adding the gravel.

• Decide on a suitable location for the heater and filter (depending on type). Remember that the heater will need a reasonable flow of water passing around it to work efficiently. Most modern heater-stats are completely submersible - the heating element part MUST be completely below water level.

• Rinse decor and add to the tank (bogwood may actually require soaking for a few weeks to avoid leaching which can cause heavy discolouration of the water). Position any rocks, etc. carefully to ensure that there is no risk of them toppling over. Use the decor to hide the equipment in the tank to give a more natural look.

• When you are happy with the layout, you can begin to add water. This is probably easier with a hose pipe rather than buckets, but in either case, try to add water gently (e.g. by directing it onto a rock or a dish placed in the tank) to avoid stirring up the substrate. Fresh tap water should always be dechlorinated before use.

• If you are adding live plants, it may be easiest to fill the tank three-quarters full and add the plants at this stage.

• Position a thermometer in an easily readable position.

• Check everything is satisfactory and then switch on the heater and filter. You can also position the lid and switch on the light at this stage.

• Run the tank for a few days - check that the heater, filter and light are working properly. Check the temperature regularly and adjust the heater/thermostat as necessary.

• The water may be a bit cloudy at first but it should clear in a day or so.

Tips: Buying the Tank and Equipment

• Never buy the tank and fish on the same day. Although it may be tempting to go home with several appealing fish, some patience and restraint is called for initially.

• If your space and budget allows, go for a larger tank. Small tanks are often sold as "ideal for the beginner", but this is not really true. Larger tanks are more stable in terms of their water chemistry, temperature, etc. Conditions will change more gradually in a larger volume of water, so things are much less likely to go wrong suddenly. A 3 foot long tank of around 100 litres/20-25 gallons is probably a good size tank to begin with.

• Unless you are buying a complete setup (e.g. the Juwel aquarium packages), you need to select the right equipment for your tank. A reputable dealer should be able to help you with this, but it is helpful to have some advance knowledge of what is required.
  Basically this means a filter, heater, a lid with lighting, 'substrate' (gravel or sand), backing material and other decor such as rocks, wood and real or plastic plants.
  Once set up, you will need additional accessories such as a water conditioner, net, test kits, etc.

Tips: Buying and Adding Fish

• Never buy fish from a tank where any dead or dying fish are visible.

• Observe fish carefully before buying. Avoid any with damaged fins or gills.

• When adding fish to the tank, allow the bag to float in the tank for at least 15 minutes to equalise temperature.

• Add only a few fish initially - otherwise they will suffer serious effects of "New Tank Syndrome" due to Cycling.

• Feed lightly, this will help to minimise pollution during the unstable period as the tank 'matures'. Overfeeding is one of the most common mistakes made by beginners to the hobby. Add food in small amounts and watch while the fish eat it. Then add a little more and so on, stopping as soon as the fish lose interest or have consumed a reasonable amount.

• Consider setting up a quarantine tank for new stock.

Standard Size & Capacities for Fish Tank

The links below detail the main standard tank sizes which are available in the UK and the US, and which may also correspond to those available in other parts of the world. Remember that nominal capacities quoted for tanks are greater than the actual volume of water, due to the normal fill level being an inch or two from the top, depth of substrate and bogwood, rocks, etc used as decor. The volume may therefore be more accurately determined when filling the tank initially.

The stocking levels quoted have been based on two different systems which are used. The first is based on the volume of water required to support each fish. The second system is based on surface area of the tank, which, as it represents the area available for oxygen to dissolve into the water, is considered by some to be a useful indicator of maximum stocking levels. With this system, a deeper tank with the same base dimensions cannot hold more fish.

Remember, these are only guidelines, which work reasonably well for general community tanks as a rough guide, and a certain amount of common sense must be applied - you can't keep two 10" fish in a 20 gallon tank for instance! It is also sensible to understock the tank to allow a safety margin - it will be much easier to keep the fish healthy in a lightly stocked tank, as well as reducing the amount of filter maintenance and water changes that need to be done.

Standard UK Tank Capacities and Stocking Levels

The guidelines for stocking levels in the UK are usually based on either 1" of fish per UK gallon of tank water up to six months, and up to a max of 2" of fish per gallon thereafter, or calculated from 1" of fish per 12 square inches of surface area (note that this is not the same as 12 inches square!). Using the first guideline, your stocking capacity in total inches of fish length is equivalent to the volume in UK gallons below, or twice that as a max in a mature tank. The stocking levels based on surface area are quoted in the table - note that these usually give a higher number (except for tall tanks) than the volume calculation, and should be considered a maximum.

The tank capacities below have been calculated allowing for a fill level 1" from the top, and a 1" depth of substrate.

Tank Size	Imp gal	US gal	Litres	Max. inches of fish based on 1" of fish per 12 sq." of surface area
18x12x12" (45x30x30cm)	7.5	9	34	18
24x12x12" (60x30x30cm)	10	12	45	24
24x12x15" (60x30x38cm)	13	16	59	24
24x12x18" (60x30x45cm)	16	19	72	24
36x12x15" (90x30x38cm)	20	24	89	36
36x12x18" (90x30x45cm)	24	29	108	36
36x15x18" (90x38x45cm)	30	36	137	48
48x12x15" (120x30x38cm)	26	31	119	48
48x12x18" (120x30x45cm)	32	38	144	48
48x15x18" (120x38x45cm)	40	48	182	60
48x18x24" (120x45x60cm)	65	79	297	72
48x24x24" (120x60x60cm)	87	105	396	96
60x15x18" (150x38x45cm)	50	60	228	75
60x18x18" (150x45x45cm)	59	71	270	90
60x24x24" (150x60x60cm)	109	131	495	120
72x15x18" (180x38x45cm)	60	72	274	90
72x18x18" (180x45x45cm)	72	86	324	108
72x24x24" (180x60x60cm)	131	157	594	144
84x24x24" (210x60x60cm)	153	183	693	168
96x24x24" (240x60x60cm)	174	210	792	192

Standard US Tank Capacities and Stocking Levels

The guidelines for stocking levels in the US are usually based on either 1" of fish per gallon of tank water, or calculated from 1" of fish per 12 square inches of surface area (note that this is not the same as 12 inches square!). Using the first guideline, your stocking capacity in total inches of fish length is equivalent to the volume in US gallons below. The stocking levels based on surface area are quoted in the table - note that these usually give a higher number (except for tall tanks) than the volume calculation, and should be considered a maximum.

Dimensions (LxWxH)	Volume in US gallons/type	Volume in Liters	Max. inches of fish based on 1" of fish per 12 sq." of surface area
12x6x8" (30x15x20cm)	2.5 mini	9	6"
16x8x10" (40x20x25cm)	5	16	10"
20x10x12" (50x25x30cm)	10	38	15"
24x12x12" (60x30x30cm)	15	57	24"
20x10x18" (50x25x45cm)	15 high	57	15"
24x12x16" (60x30x40cm)	20 high	76	24"
30x12x12" (75x30x30cm)	20 long	76	30"
24x12x20" (60x30x50cm)	25	95	24"
30x12x18" (75x30x45cm)	29	110	30"
36x12x16" (90x30x40cm)	30	113	36"
36x18x12" (90x45x30cm)	30 breeder	113	54"
48x13x12" (120x33x30cm)	33 long	125	52"
30x12x22" (75x30x22cm)	37	140	30"
36x12x20" (90x30x50cm)	38	144	36"
36x18x16" (90x45x40cm)	40 breeder	151	54"
48x13x16" (120x33x40cm)	40 long	151	52"
36x12x24" (90x30x60cm)	45	170	36"
36x18x18" (90x45x45cm)	50	189	54"
48x13x20" (120x33x50cm)	55	208	52"
36x18x24" (90x45x60cm)	65	246	54"
48x18x20" (120x45x50cm)	75	284	72"
48x18x24" (120x45x60cm)	90	340	72"
48x24x24" (120x60x60cm)	120	454	96"
72x18x22" (180x45x55cm)	125	473	108"
72x18x28" (180x45x70cm)	150	567	108"
72x24x24" (180x60x60cm)	180	680	144"

Acknowledgement: Thanks to Bill Kramer, OH, for info on standard US tanks sizes.

Maintaining Aquarium

So you've finally got your fish tank up and running but you're noticing that it's starting to look a little dirty. Or, you notice that you need to top off some evaporated water. This is the time for some routine aquarium care. Fish tank maintenance can sometimes be a bother for hobbyists but it doesn't have to be that way. Develop a schedule for carrying out these aquarium maintenance tasks and it will make this hobby more enjoyable. Staying on top of those water changes should increase the health of your fish and make your tank look nicer.

It's important to note that you don't need to completely break down the tank everytime you have to "clean your tank". Most of the time you will just need to perform a partial water change (20 percent or so) with a good gravel vacuuming and maybe scrape a little algae off the front viewing panel. If you have a major algae problem then something is out of whack. You may be feeding too much, your tank may be overstocked, you're not performing frequent enough water changes, you're feeding the wrong types of foods, etc. Or, it could be a combination of the above. If you have a problem with cloudy water, please read the article on Cloudy Aquarium Water and be sure to keep up with your fish tank maintenance!

Ok, lets talk about cleaning your fish tank:

Items you will need
• Aquarium Glass Scrubber
• Aquarium Vacuum
• 5-gallon bucket
  OR
• Python vacuum system (recommended!)

STEP 1: Develop an aquarium maintenance schedule
You will want to clean your fish tank at least once every 2 weeks. Once a week would be even better to take care of your fish tank and it will be easier each time you clean.

STEP 2: Turn off the electricity to the fish tank.
This will be safer for you and it will keep the filter from clogging up with the debris you pull from the gravel. Read this article on Aquarium Electrical Safety for more information.

STEP 3: Clean your fish tank
Each time you clean your aquarium you will need to replace about 20% of the water. Use your algae scrubber to scrape any algae off the front and maybe the sides of the tank. For acrylic aquariums, make sure that you won't scratch the acrylic with whatever you're using to clean the sides. Some use an old credit card for acrylic tanks.

Check out the filter media (i.e. filter floss). If it needs cleaning you can rinse it in some of the discarded tank water. This filter media will have loads of the beneficial bacteria needed for the aquarium nitrogen cycle and rinsing it in tap water with chlorine and/or chloramine can kill some of the bacteria, so use tank water.

The vacuum and bucket method
• Place the bucket below the aquarium.
• Insert the end of the vacuum hose into the bucket and the vacuum completely into the aquarium. Use an up and down motion or a 45° angled up and down motion with the vacuum until the water starts flowing into the bucket. Clean as much of the gravel as possible until 20 percent of the water is drained.

The Python vacuum method
• Hook up the python to the sink.
• Insert the vacuum completely into the aquarium. Turn on the faucet to begin the siphoning process. Clean as much of the gravel as possible until 20 percent of the water is drained.

STEP 4: Refill aquarium with de-chlorinated water.
Before adding water to the tank you should add the proper amount of chemicals that will remove the chlorine and chloramine from the incoming water. Try to add water that is the same temperature as you tank water. High temperature swings would be very stressful for your tropical fish.

For Saltwater aquariums you will want to have some saltwater mixed up and ready to go at least the day before you plan on doing water changes. Freshly mixed saltwater can be fairly toxic to fish and you need to allow a day or so to allow the salt mix to properly dissolve. Many use new and clean 5-gallon buckets or rubber trash cans for this purpose. Mix up the salt, pop in a powerhead and maybe a heater and you have saltwater ready for when you need it.

Once a week, clean out the skimmer collection cup, scrape off any salt creep back into the tank if possible. If you don't have saltwater snails you'll need to use an algae scrubber to remove any algae that has built up on the front and sides of the glass. See the note above if you have an acrylic tank (scratches easily!). This is also a good time to test the tank water salinity with your hydrometer. Top off any evaporated tank water with dechlorinated fresh water.

Freshwater & Saltwater Aquarium

Are you thinking about converting that freshwater aquarium into a saltwater aquarium? We'll shed some light on some of the differences in the setup of these two types of aquariums.

There are many differences when it comes to freshwater versus saltwater aquariums. These setups can be quite different when it comes to initial and ongoing costs, everyday chores and maintenance tasks and care requirements for the fish and inverts.

This article was written for those aquarium hobbyists interested in the main differences in keeping a saltwater tank versus a freshwater aquarium. Let's get started.

Tank types
In the freshwater world you hear people talking about African Cichlid and New World Cichlid tanks, brackish tanks, planted tanks, predator tanks, etc. Well, the saltwater side of the hobby has some different types of tank setups as well. There are the Fish-Only tanks, FOWLR tanks (Fish Only with Live Rock) and Reef Tanks. These three saltwater aquarium types progress in startup and maintenance costs. Fish-Only tanks can be considered on the low end for startup costs while FOWLR tanks are moderatly priced and reef tanks could be considered hight priced. Refugiums for saltwater aquariums are gaing steam these days as well as many hobbyists realize the important benefits these refugiums can provide.

Aquarium setup costs
Let's start with the initial setup costs for starting these two aquarium types. To keep it simple, we'll lookup at fish-only systems, except for the reef tank which is for corals and invertebrates. For a freshwater aquarium you may have the following initial equipment list. Please keep in mind that these are very rough estimates on prices and we used a 29 gallon aquarium for this example. *June 2007 - Added the approximate total cost for setting up a Saltwater Reef Tank.

Freshwater Aquarium Aquarium $50 Gravel (substrate) $20 Filter (power filter) $50 Aquarium Light (regular flourescent) $50 Test kits (pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate) $50 Food, Nets, Scrapers and other equipment (similar to those needed for saltwater tanks) $25 Quarantine Tank $25 Approximate Total Cost: $270

Saltwater Aquarium Aquarium $50 Sand (substrate) $50 Filter $25 Power Heads for water movement $50 Protein Skimmer $150 Hydrometer $10 Salt Mix $30 Live Rock $100 Test kits (pH, ammonia, Nitrite, nitrate, calcium, alkalinity) $70 Lights (regular flourescent) $50 Food, nets, Scrapers, similar $25 Quarantine Tank $25 Approximate Total Cost: $635

Reef Tank Aquarium $50 Sand (substrate) $50 Filter $25 Power Heads for water movement $75 Protein Skimmer $150 Hydrometer $10 Salt Mix $30 Live Rock $140 Test kits (pH, ammonia, Nitrite, nitrate, calcium, alkalinity, phosphate) $90 Lights (power compacts or better) $250 Food, nets, Scrapers, similar $25 Refugium for culturing live foods for corals and fish $150 Quarantine Tank $25 Reverse Osmosis Filter Unit $200 Approximate Total Cost: $1270

As you can see, a saltwater aquarium requires some additional aquarium test kits and some additional equipment not found on the freshwater side of the hobby. You'll need to invest in a good quality protein skimmer and some good quality live rock. Live rock is important from a biological filter perspective and if you're using live rock you don't have to use an external filter on the tank. Let the protein skimmer remove the dissolved wastes. The external mechanical aquarium filter may actually become a source of nitrates if not cleaned often enough since the power filter just traps waste. The protein skimmer on the other hand actually removes the dissolved organics from the water.

Quick note on live rock
I wouldn't recommend that a newbie start a saltwater tank without live rock. There are just too many benefits to having it in your marine aquarium. It's a great biological filter, provides food for various species, provides hiding places and homes for others and it looks great. There are other benefits too. Check out the article on saltwater live rock for more information. Setting up and keeping a marine fish tank stable without live rock can be more difficult than starting one with ample quantities of good quality live rock.

Water changes are easier for freshwater tanks
The periodic partial water changes are one of the most important tasks that a hobbyist performs on a regular basis and the process is a little different when you move into saltwater aquariums. Freshwater aquarists generally can remove some of the tank water (say 10%) with an aquarium vacuum and then refill the tank with dechlorinated tap or filtered water and your tank could stay in a great shape if you do this regularly. Saltwater hobbyists can't use the same vacuum (python) do this since the saltwater has to be mixed up days before hand in a separate container. You can use a bucket to mix new saltwater or if you have a bigger tank, a larger holding container can be used.

Saltwater fish are generally more expensive than freshwater fish
Cruise through the aisles at any saltwater fish store and your jaw might drop when you notice the price tags on some of the saltwater species. With the exception of some of the really common species such as green chromis and other small damselfish, most fish are $15 or higher. Saltwater invertebrates also come with really high price tags, especially for those hobbyists not living near coastal areas. Shipping and handling will get added to the price tag.

Quarantine all new fish!
Most marine species come from the reef and will need to be quarantined before introducing to your main tank. You don't have to go all out here. A simple bare bones quarantine tank setup will be fine. Many freshwater species are farm raised since they are (in general) easier to breed than their saltwater counterparts. Clownfish, dottybacks, dwarf angelfish and some other saltwater species are now being aqua-cultured (farm raised) but their price tags are even more expensive since they are usually hardier than those caught in the ocean. The farm raised species are worth it! We also need to support these breeders so that more species can be raised going forward. Since most saltwater species are coming direct from the wild, they may be carrying various internal or external parasites or diseases.

Lots of invertebrates to choose from
There seems to be an unlimited amount of invertebrates available to keep in a saltwater tank. Freshwater hobbyists certainly have invertebrates available but not to the extent of saltwater. You name it, a local fish store around you probably has it. From corals, clams, shrimps, worms, sea stars, feather dusters, etc. The amount of saltwater invertebrates available to hobbyists is vast and it seems to be growing all the time.

Saltwater fish colors are amazing
While there are some exceptionally colorful freshwater species (bettas, neon tetras, discus, etc) there are many more saltwater species that are truly breathtaking to view. You've never seen the color yellow until you've seen a school of healthy yellow tangs swimming in a large aquarium or on the reef!

Getting saltwater fish eating can sometimes be challenging
This goes back to most of the species being wild caught. Freshwater species may be second, third, fourth, or Nth generation or more from a fish farm and they are given flakes or other man-made fish preparations. Getting freshwater fish to eat should pose no problems for even the novice aquarist. Saltwater fish on the other hand are from the wild (generally speaking here) and may need to be slowly weaned onto standard aquarium foods over a period of several weeks or months. Specialized diets become even more important with saltwater fish species, since inadequate diets can lead to stress, which can lead to lowered immune systems and disease causing us to lose our $75 saltwater fish!

Summary
In general, keeping saltwater fish is more expensive and more difficult than keeping freshwater fish. However, once established they do seem to be less demanding and water quality tends to stay better in tanks using live rock. Live plants perform similar (albeit to a lower degree) functions in water filtration in a freshwater aquarium. If you've been keeping freshwater tanks for some time now successfully the switch to saltwater should not be all that difficult. If you have the desire, the fortitude to do the necessary research before acquiring animals and aquarium equipment and the money necessary to run a saltwater aquarium, then by all means go for it! Once you get started you'll be wondering why it took you so long to get into the saltwater side of the hobby.

Happy Fish Keeping!

About Fish Food

If you want to get the most out of your fish it is important to give them a variety of fish foods. While you can give them just flake food, you should try to vary their diet with some of the different types of tropical fish food described below. Two or three small feedings a day is better than one feeding per day. Only put in as much food that the fish will consume within 2 minutes. Overfeeding your fish will lead to poor water quality and stressed fish.

Freeze-dried foods are a safe alternative to live fish food due to the treatment of these foods before the freeze drying process. Be extremely careful when using live foods (especially feeder goldfish) due to the diseases that they may carry.

Automatic Fish Food Feeder
These are good to use because they will dispense the same amount of food at specified intervals, usually every 12 hours. They can also be utilized while you are away on vacation.

Flake Fish Food
Flakes are easy to use and your fish will like it. Flakes usually float on the surface while the fish eat. If you have bottom dwelling fish like Cory Cats, you will want to use something like algae wafers or pellets that sink to the bottom. You can use flakes as the primary food source because it contains most of the vitamins, minerals and other nutrients that your fish need. They are also easy on your fish's digestive system. Start off by using just a pinch or two. If your fish gobble it up in less than 2 minutes, try another tiny pinch. Avoid overfeeding because this can lead to poor, cloudy water.

Also keep in mind that flake food does get bad if you've had it for a long time. Just imagine eating from a 6 month old box of cereal. So, it's probably best to go for the smaller flake food containers instead of the jumbo containers that will last for 5 years.

Brine Shrimp
Brine shrimp is a great food for getting your fish ready for fish breeding. It can also be used as an excellent treat for your fish. Use it as a supplement to the daily diet of flake fish food.

You can also create your own brine shrimp rather easily. Check out the brine shrimp hatchery page for details on how to create a DIY hatchery.

Blood Worms
If you have carnivorous fish you may want to supplement their diet with some blood worms. Your other fish will love these as well. Blood worms are high in protein and only feed them to your fish occasionally.

Krill
Krill are small crustaceans that are often used to enhance the colors in tropical fish. It is not recommended to feed krill daily to your fish. Use it as an occasional supplement to their diet.

Shrimp Pellets
Made from brine shrimp and because these pellets usually sink to the bottom, they can be used to feed your bottom dwelling fish. Brine shrimp is a great fish food and is often used to stimulate breeding in tropical fish.

Spirulina
Spirulina is a type of blue-green algae that can be a great supplement for your fish that are primarily herbivores. What is the benefit of spirulina? It contains many amino and fatty acids that are the building blocks for proteins. It is also usually vitamin enriched. Fish such as Plecos, Silver Dollars and Mollies will really benefit from a diet supplemented with spirulina fish food. It should help make your fish more regular with their bowel movements.

Algae Wafers
These wafers were specifically developed for the hard to feed plecostomus and other algae eating bottom feeders. Cory cats and Silver Dollars will go after these sinking wafers as well. It can be really funny to watch Silver Dollars chase each other around the tank when one gets the algae wafer. This food can be a great supplement for the aforementioned species as well as other herbivorous fish. Drop one or two in at night when the tank lights go off for your bottom feeders. This way they won't have to compete with the top dwelling species for the wafers.

Frozen Fish Food
Frozen fish foods are great for getting high quality, fresh food to your fish. These foods are usually high in proteins and fats so check the label to see exactly what you're giving your fish. Manufacturers are making frozen varieties of the many tropical fish food types, including brine shrimp, beef heart, bloodworms, daphnia, krill, plankton, silversides, etc. You can sometimes get the frozen fish food in cube packs that really makes it easy to dispense.

Using frozen fish food can be messy, to cut down on the amount of pollution added to your tank you may want to thaw the frozen food in a bowl and then slowly spoon feed it to your tank. Only put in as much food as your fish will eat as soon as it touches the water.

Feeding your fish high quality, frozen foods will really do wonders for them. You may start to notice that your fish have improved colors and they may even start breeding.

Freeze Dried Fish Food
Freeze dried fish foods are great foods as well. However, they are one of the most expensive types of tropical fish foods per ounce. There are benefits to using freeze dried foods. They are not very messy, they tend to float at the top of the tank for a very long period of time and they have been decontaminated (free from fish disease) by the manufacturer before the freeze drying process. If you've used freeze dried fish food you know how fish go after them. Freeze dried food is a very good way to supplement your pet's diet.

Live Fish Food
Live tropical fish food is exactly what you think it is. The food is still alive when you introduce it to the tank. Brine shrimp, Daphnia, Feeder Goldfish and worms are usually the main live foods given to tropical fish. Many give feeder Goldfish to their Piranhas and Lionfish. If you plan on using live foods, caution is advised because feeder fish can bring fish disease along with them.

Earth worms can be a great supplement for your fish but don't feed them to your fish too frequently. Finding earth worms can be fairly easy but make sure you don't collect them from soil that may have contaminants such as lawn fertilizer.

Freshwater Aquarium Setup

This freshwater aquarium setup article explains how to set up a basic freshwater fish tank. We'll start with a short list of the equipment you'll need and then give you a step by step guide on setting up your first fish tank.

Equipment you will need:
• Aquarium
• Aquarium gravel
• Aquarium filter
• Replacement filter media
• Heater
• Other decorations (such as fake or real plants)
• Aquarium test kits to test water parameters and monitor the infamous aquarium nitrogen cycle
• Fish food
• Aquarium vacuum
• Fish net
• Aquarium Glass Scrubber
• 5-gallon bucket
• Pasta strainer

STEP 1: Realize the responsibility involved.
Learning how to set up a fish tank is not all that difficult, but there are some steps you should follow. First, you must realize a few things about an aquarium setup. A tropical fish tank is just like having a dog or a cat when it comes to the amount of effort on your part. In order to have a successful freshwater tropical fish tank you will have to work at it. Once a week, or at most once every two weeks, you will need to perform some kind of maintenance on the tank. Most of the time you will be performing water changes. You will also have to feed your fish at least once a day. Setting up and running a fish tank does cost money. There are recurring expenses such as replacing filter media, buying food, etc. Check out the Freshwater vs. Saltwater Aquarium page to get an idea of the setup costs involved. If you are up to the challenge, please proceed!

STEP 2: Decide on an aquarium size.
It's a good idea to have in mind what kind of fish you want to keep before you purchase an aquarium. Some fish only grow to be an inch or two, whereas other types of tropical fish can grow 12 or 13 inches or more in length! Knowing what kind of fish you want will help you decide the size of the tank they will need. If this is your first time with an aquarium, it may be a good idea to start with a 10 or 20 gallon aquarium setup for now and stock it with some smaller and hardier species.

STEP 3: Decide on the aquarium's location.
Place your aquarium in an area where the light and temperature of the tank won't be affected by external sources such as windows and heater vents. Sunlight that enters the room through an unshaded window could affect the temperature of your tank. This could also lead to green algae problems for your tank down the road. You will want to place your aquarium on a stand that will be able to hold its total weight. You also want to be sure that the floor is able to support the total weight of the aquarium and stand. A good rule of thumb for determining the total weight of a full aquarium is 10 pounds per gallon of water. For example, a 55-gallon tank will weigh approximately 550 pounds when filled with water!

STEP 4: Buy your aquarium and equipment.
Now is a good time to decide on the type of aquarium filter you will want to use. You will also need to purchase a heater capable of heating the tank size you have. Buy the gravel, plants, a power strip and other decorations. A good rule of thumb for the amount of gravel that you will need is 1 to 1.5 pounds of gravel per gallon of water.

STEP 5: Set up your aquarium and stand.
Wash out your tank with water only! Do not use soap or detergents. Soap residue left behind will be harmful for your tropical fish. If you are going to use an under gravel filter (not recommended) now would be the time to set it up as well.

STEP 6: Wash Gravel, plants and decorations.
Be sure to wash the gravel thoroughly before adding it to your tank. An easy way to do this is to put some of the rocks in a pasta strainer and wash them out in your bath tub. Then place the clean gravel in a clean 5-gallon bucket for transport to the aquarium. After adding the gravel you can place your plants and decorations.

STEP 7: Add water to the aquarium.
To avoid messing up your gravel and plants, you can place a plate or saucer in the middle of your aquarium and direct the water flow onto the plate. Use room temperature water when filling. To remove the chlorine and chloramine, use something like Tetra AquaSafe for Aquariums. Don't completely fill up the aquarium until you are sure of the layout of your decorations. Otherwise, when you place your arm in to move stuff around water is going to spill over. Doh!

STEP 8: Set up equipment.
Install your heater but don't plug it in until the thermostat in the heater has adjusted to the water temperature. This usually takes about 15 minutes or so. Hook up your filter and any other equipment you have, then top off the aquarium water to just under the hood lip. Place your hood and tank light on the aquarium and then check your power cords to be sure that they are free of water. I would also recommend using a drip loop on all of the power cords to be extra cautious. For more information on safety, read this great article on aquarium electrical safety. Plug all of the equipment into a power strip and then "turn on" the aquarium.

STEP 9. Wait, wait, wait and then wait some more.
I know, you want to add some fish. But, in order to do this right you must wait until your aquarium has cycled before adding any fish. There are ways of speeding up this process. Check out the nitrogen cycle page to learn more about starting the nitrogen cycle and how to speed it up. If you must use fish to cycle, try to get a hardier species like the zebra danio or cherry barb. You may notice your fish tank cycle kicking in gear if you start to get some white cloudy aquarium water after a few days.

STEP 10. Add tropical fish.
Only add one or two fish at a time. Adding a couple fish at a time gives your filtration system the time needed to take on the increased biological load that the new fish introduce. When you bring the fish home let the bag float in the tank for about 15 minutes so that the fish can become acclimated to the temperature and pH of the aquarium water. After 5 minutes of floating the bag you should add some of the aquarium water to the bag so that the fish can become acclimated to the pH level in the aquarium. This will help reduce the amount of stress imposed on the fish. Stressed fish often leads to dead or diseased fish! Don't feed your fish on the first day. They probably wouldn't eat any food on the first day anyway. Let them get acquainted with their new home.

If you're interested in some good and hardy first fish, please read the Good First Tropical Fish article.

STEP 11. Get ready for regular maintenance.
Be prepared to spend some time once every week or two to clean your tank. Performing regular water changes will reduce the nitrate levels and keep your tropical fish happy and healthy.

As you can see, the steps for how to set up a fish tank are not that complex and hopefully you now have your aquarium setup and running! Have fun, take care of and enjoy your fish!

Aquarium Filter

Your aquarium filter helps increase the quality of the water in your fish tank. Most folks think of mechanical filtration when it comes to aquarium filters but as you will soon see, there are some other filter types that you need to know about.

Mechanical, Biological & Chemical Filters

There are three types of filtration that every aquarium needs:

1. Mechanical Filtration
2. Biological Filtration
3. Chemical Filtration

Mechanical Filtration
Mechanical filtration removes the free floating particles from the aquarium water. The siphoning action of a power filter that hangs on the back of an aquarium does a decent job of this type of filtration.

Biological Filtration
Biological filtration is the most important aquarium filtration type because it deals with the growing of the good bacteria in your filter. The good bacteria is the bacteria that converts ammonia to nitrite and then converts nitrite into nitrate. This establishment of bacteria is essential to your success with keeping tropical fish. For more information please read about the Nitrogen Cycle.

Ammonia -> Nitrite -> Nitrate

Chemical Filtration
Chemical filtration involves removing the dissolved wastes from the aquarium water. Often times this is accomplished through the use of activated carbon in the aquarium filter. Activated carbon can also help to reduce odors. Many people dislike using carbon in their tanks due to the fact that the carbon is useful for only a short period and then must be replaced. If it doesn't get replaced in a timely manner the very wastes that it removed can be released from the carbon back into the aquarium.

Zeolites can also be used in chemical filtration. Zeolite removes ammonia from your aquarium water and can be a fish life saver if you have high ammonia levels. Many first time fishkeepers mistakenly add too many fish to a new aquarium before it has cycled and experience the disappointing loss of their fish. Using zeolite during the cycling process in your aquarium filter can help prevent this from happening but it has the side effect of lengthening the time it takes to complete the aquarium nitrogen cycle.

Types of Aquarium Filters
Corner Filter
The corner filter sits inside the aquarium in one of the corners or even sticks on to the glass. It is very low-tech but a corner aquarium filter can be used successfully for mechanical, chemical and biological filtration. The key is not to change out the entire filter material when performing maintenance. Only change out the carbon and part of the filter material. Corner filters require frequent maintenance.

Undergravel Filter (UGF)
Undergravel filters are commonly found with beginner's aquarium kits and the undergravel filter has been around for a long time. Undergravel aquarium filters can provide good mechanical filtration because it forces the water down through the aquarium gravel where particles are trapped.

Biological filtration occurs in the gravel because of the slow flow of water through it. The water is then pushed up through the uplift tubes in the back of the tank where chemical filtration takes place with the activated carbon in the top of the tubes.

The problem with this type of aquarium filter stems from the fact that it can be difficult to thoroughly vacuum the gravel and harmful gas pockets can form under the gravel plates thereby harming your tropical fish. I personally don't use undergravel filters because of this reason. There's a lot of controversy surrounding the use of undergravel filtration. Check out The Undergravel Filter Controversy for more on the this subject. Many long time fishkeepers still use the undergravel filter and swear by it. If you do use an undergravel filter try to regularly vacuum your gravel to prevent the harmful gasses from forming.

Sponge Filter
Sponge filters can provide a cheap and effective form of biological filtration. Water flows through the airlift tube allowing a colony of beneficial bacteria to grow in the sponge. There is no chemical filtration with this method and the mechanical filtration is very weak. You must do frequent water changes if this is your only form of filtration. Many breeders use the sponge filter in conjunction with a bare bottom tank. After feeding their young fish they will siphon any remaining food to prevent the water quality from detiorating. Frequent water changes are performed because it aids in the rapid growth of the young fish. Fish breeders don't have to worry about mechanical or chemical filtration as much because they are performing frequent water changes.

Power Filter
The power filter is probably the most popular filter type for a variety of reasons. They are easy to use and clean and they can be an effective means of mechanical, chemical and biological filtration! The drawback to using power filters is that it is very inefficient because of its design. The intake tube for the dirty aquarium water is directly below the lip of the outflowing filtered water. Does this make any sense? Not to me either.

More aquarium kits come with a power filter than any other type of aquarium filter. Try to get a power filter that contains two filter media slots. With two filter slots you can change out one side of the filter and then a few weeks later change out the other side. If you change out the entire set of media cartridges at once you run the risk of having to re-cycle or mini-cycle because you've tossed out much of the beneficial bacteria.

Canister Filter
Canister filters are on the higher end of the price scale but they are pricey for a reason. They work. Often there are multiple trays for a canister filter with each tray providing a type of filtration. The first tray could be a sponge that filters (mechanical and biological) the large particles. The second tray could be filled with zeolite that removes ammonia from the water (chemical). The third tray could be activated carbon which would further filter (chemical) the water. Most canister filters push the water from the bottom of the canister to the top but some work just the opposite. Find out which way yours works to get the most out of the canister filter. This is our personal choice of aquarium filter on most of our tanks.

Protein Skimmer
Protein skimmer models come in a few different styles. There are those made for in tank use (Visi Jet PS), protein skimmers that hang on the back of the tank and those designed for use in a sump.

Those desiged for in tank use are usually less desirable because they don't seem to work as well as the other types. Try to get one that hangs on the back of the tank such as the AquaC Remora Protein Skimmer or one for your sump. Also, make sure that you can easily get to and remove the collection cup for daily or weekly cleaning.

This piece of equipment is usually very pricey but it is a critical piece of equipment for saltwater aquarium beginners nonetheless. They are virtually useless in freshwater tanks.

In saltwater tanks, the skimmer will remove dissolved organic material from the water and anyone who has used one can tell you about the smelly brown gunk that gets pulled from the water. In the past, saltwater aquarium keepers would sometimes experience a complete die off of the fish in their tanks. Many believe that it was due to the amount of dissolved organics in the water and by using a protein skimmer they have drastically reduced the chances of this happening.

Since this is an expensive piece of equipment you will want to shop around and research the various models out there. It's been our experience that you usually get what you pay for when it comes to skimmers.

Powerhead
Powerheads are used for water movement as well as in conjunction with an undergravel filter system. If you're running a system where air stones drive the water flow in your undergravel filter, consider using a powerhead in one of the uplift tubes. The powerhead should help generate much better flow through the UGF, resulting in a more efficient UGF. Many come with a tube that is connected to the powerhead that hangs on the outside of the tank with an air flow valve. This allows you to mix air with the water being pushed out of the powerhead. That can help increase surface agitation and aeration in your tank.

Saltwater hobbyists frequently use multiple powerheads situated in a way that allows them to control the flow of the water in the tank. Saltwater tanks usually require more water movement than freshwater tanks. Constant water movement prevents dead zones in a tank and keeps uneaten food suspended in the water column so that the fish can eat it or the mechanical filtration can get rid of it.

Refugium
A refugium is an external tank, usually smaller, that is used to house smaller fish and invertebrates for cultivation and/or feeding the fish in the display tank. It can be connected to the main tank and is sometimes apart of or separate from the sump. You can even get a hang on the back of the tank type refugiums or retro a power filter to use as a refugium. See the refugium setup for more information. A refugium provides isolation for those more delicate specimens that can easily and quickly become food for the larger fish in the display tank.

Aquarium Sump
A sump is also an external tank but one that has water lines connected to the display tank. They can be any size but are often smaller and placed hidden below the main tank in the cabinetry. Sumps can provide many benefits for you. They can help with nutrient export by allowing certain algae types to grow uninterrupted from grazing by your herbivores in the display tank. Sumps also increase the total amount of water in the system. For instance, if your aquarium is 55 gallons and your sump is 20 gallons, you essentially have a 75 gallon tank.

This extra tank also gives you the ability to hide ugly equipment (like filters and protein skimmers) that could diminish the look of the display tank. Many saltwater hobbyists add any saltwater supplements to the sump instead of the main tank. Supplements such as Iodine, strontium, kalkwasser (lime water) dosing systems and others are often placed into or connected to the sump. Is a sump absolutely necessary for a saltwater aquarium? No, they are not mandatory but they can definitely help in keeping your system (water parameters) stable.

Aquarium Types

The most common types of material used for tanks in the United States are glass and plexiglass. Both of these materials appear to work well for keeping aquarium fish.

Glass tanks are advantageous because they are widely available at a relativity low cost. Glass tanks, made by reputable manufacturers, are generally reliable as far as not leaking. However, some cheaply manufactured tanks are subject to leakage and breakage. Be sure the tank you buy is guaranteed against leakage for a period of time. All glass tank are heavy.



Plexiglass tanks are gaining popularity in the United States. These tanks are light, attractive, and are available in a variety of sizes and shapes. Plexiglass tanks are less likely to leak than glass tanks. There are a few drawbacks including a higher cost than glass tanks and a vulnerability to scratches. Some report that large tanks may "bow" with time.

There are other tanks available, but they are not nearly as common as the two mentioned types.

Whatever tank is chosen, be sure that a cover is included. The cover will reduce evaporation and lessen the chances of a fish jumping out.

Conditioning Tanks for Fish Breeding

Spawning tank

Aquarium Supplies from PETCO: Air Pumps Aquarium Hoods & Lighting Aquariums & Furniture Aquarium Books Conditioners & Treatments Décor Filter Media Filters Food Heaters Maintenance & Cleaning Marine Products Medication Pond Testing Supplies Water Pumps

Though some species readily spawn in the aquarium, the eggs or fry often do not survive because of predatory parents or other fish. Often the fry die because of unfavorable, unclean water conditions. Many species that practice brood care will harm other tank mates in attempting to guard the eggs. Because of all these problems; most aquariasts who breed fish use a separate spawning tank. The spawning tank should be like the hospital tank with protected heater so the the fish are not burned; a slow-moving filter (sponge filter), so the eggs or fry are not sucked up; and good aeration. Depending on the spawning method, the spawning tank can be set up in a number of different ways.

Egg-scatterers: Because egg scatterers often eat their own eggs, the spawning tank has to be set-up so the eggs fall out of the reach of hungry parents. A 5-10 gallon tank is sufficient for spawning for most eggs scatterers.

For egg scatterers like barbs and danios, which lay non-adhesive eggs, the spawning tank can be furnished with a substrate consisting of two layers of marbles or a nylon netting just above the tank floor. As the eggs are laid, they fall through the marbles or the netting out of the reach of the parents. After spawning is over, the eggs or the parents can be removed.

For egg scatterers that lay adhesive eggs like tetras, the spawning tank should be furnished with a substrate. The tank should be planted with fine-leafed plants. The eggs are laid amongst plants, and adhere to the fine-leaves. The parents should be removed after spawning.

Rainbowfish also lay adhesive eggs, however, most species spawn continuously over a period of several weeks. Thus, the eggs or the plants that the eggs are attached to, should be removed daily and placed in the rearing tank. Larger rainbowfish require a spawning tank of 20-30 gallons.

Egg-depositors: Depending on the type of egg depositor, the tank should be furnished differently.

For those egg-depositors that care for their young, the parents can remain in the tank after spawning. Substrate spawners, depending on the species, should be given a tank furnished glass panes, broad-leafed plants, or flat stones for spawning sites. Some species such as Discus and Angelfish prefer vertical surfaces. For cavity spawners, flower pots turned on their side, coconut shells, and rocky caves are suitable spawning sites. The tank should be furnished with either live or plastic plants to give the fish a sense of security.

Egg-depositors that do not care for their young, should be given a tank furnished with fine and broad-leafed plants, Java Moss, or artificial spawning mops. After spawning the parents or plants with the eggs should be removed. If the plants containing eggs are removed, new plants should be placed in the tank for future spawnings. Killifish eggs often develop best when they are kept in a shallow dish.

Egg-burriers: A peat-moss substrate is one of the best substrates for egg-burying species. The peat moss can be removed after spawning and placed in a plastic bag to be stored for weeks to months (depending on the species). A new peat moss substrate can be placed in the tank for further spawnings. In order to initiate hatching, the stored peat can be immersed in soft water.

Mouth-brooders: Ovophile mouth-brooders can be bred in the main aquarium because the eggs are protected in the mouth cavity. However, it is better to separate mouth-brooders with eggs because of their potentially aggressive behavior. There are no special breeding tank requirements other than the usual tank set-up for the species.

Larvophile mouth-brooders should be placed in a breeding tank because the eggs are not protected in the mouth, but laid on a surface where the are open to predators.

Nest-builders: Nest-builders should be provided with material with which to build their nests. For bubble-nest builders, fine leafed and floating plants should be provided, and the tank should have no water current to disturb the nest. Species that build nests in the substrate should be given fine gravel or sand.

Livebearers: Small livebearers can be bred in breeding traps where the newborns fall out of the reach of the mother. However, a more preferable set-up is a separate, heavily planted tank. As the female releases the young, she can be fed so that she is not to eat the fry. As soon as all the young are born, remove the mother.

Wrong Ways, When Cleaning Aquarium

Sometimes you are much better off knowing what NOT to do rather knowing what you should do. Aquarium cleaning may be one of those things. There are some very simple things that seem harmless but could have serious effects on your tank.

Using Bleach or Cleaners

This aquarium cleaning mishap could have disastrous effects on your tank. This really doesn’t seem like a bad idea in theory. If you want to really get something clean, you use bleach right? Not in your fish tank. Even trace amounts of bleach and other cleaners left behind in your tank or on your decorations can seriously harm your fish. Just use plain water and some hard work to clean your tank. That’s all you need to get the job done.

Rinsing Your Aquarium Gravel

Completely cleaning your aquarium gravel also seems like a good idea. After all, your gravel catches all of your aquarium waste making it the one of the dirtiest parts of your tank. So what could be wrong with that? Your gravel is one of the greatest breeding grounds for all of those good bacteria that make up your bio-filter. Because of this it’s best to leave the gravel in place when you’re cleaning your fish tank. The best way to clean your gravel is just siphon up the major debris off the bottom. This keeps that bio-filter in tact and keeps your fish happy during your aquarium cleaning.

Cleaning Too Much At Once

This aquarium cleaning mistake is similar to the one above in that it is related to your tanks bio-filtration. You wouldn’t think you could really clean too much, but you can. Your tanks good bacteria are growing all throughout your tank once it’s established. On your tank walls, plants, decorations, filter media, gravel, and even in the water. If you clean all of these things at once your bio-filter looses its effectiveness. One solution is to clean things in stages. One week you could do a partial water change, and clean the glass. The next week you could clean everything else. Another solution with regard to the filter media is to just rinse it in your tank water rather than replace it. This keeps the bacteria in your tank and sufficiently rinses the media.

Feeding Your Fish Smartly

Fish feeding the right way will make for a fish tank full of happy fish. It’s not rocket science, but there are also some feeding mistakes you can make that can hurt your fish tank in the long run. Some basic ideas, including “The Golden Rule”, will ensure your fish are happy and healthily fed.

The Fish Feeding Golden Rule

The golden rule of tropical fish feeding is “Do not over feed your fish”. You’ll notice this on the back of most types of fish food you purchase off the shelf. What you might not realize is that extreme over feeding could be very unhealthy for your fish. Every time you come near the tank you’ll see your fish heading to their normal feeding position. Don’t mistake this for your fish truly being hungry or under fed. The reality is that your fish could go days without eating and be just fine. In their natural environment this is exactly what happens. In nature, fish eat food when they find it. This doesn’t always happen twice a day.

How Often Should You Feed Your Fish?

You’ll have to feel your fish out on this one. The ideal fish feeding frequency varies by fish. Twice a day is preferred by most fish. It really goes back to being careful not to over feed. You could feed you fish more food less often, or less food more often. You just do not want any food leftover a couple of minutes after feeding.

Leftovers Are Bad For Your Water

You might not realize the full effects of left over fish food. Leftover fish food is a very common root of cloudy fish tank water and algae growth. This is mostly because of the affect it can have on your chemical levels. Spiking nitrates and weakening pH are just some of the chemical problems that excessive fish feeding can cause.

Fish Feeding Times

Your fish will come to expect the feeding times. It’s also a good idea to get on a regular feeding schedule to make things easier on you. It’s just easier to remember if you have a regular schedule of say once in the morning and once at night. Pick a couple of times a day that work for you and try to stick to it. Your fish will appreciate this consistency with their feeding times.

Aquarium for Beginner

These days, most aquaria are made from sheets of glass glued together with silicone rubber. As a result they do not leak after many years in service, or by being emptied and refilled many times.

The cheapest types have the visible edges of the glass smoothed and polished. It is possible to buy molded plastic tanks, often bow-fronted or other unusual shapes. These cannot be recommended for several reasons, the main ones being that they scratch easily (whereby spoiling the view of your fishy friends), and they are generally only available in rather small sizes that are not very suitable for a permanent display of tropical fish.

The most popular sizes are 24in long by 12in wide by 15in high (61cm long by 30cm wide by 38cm high); and 36in long by 36in wide by 36in high (90cm long by 90cm wide by 90cm high). Within reason, you should obtain the largest aquarium you can afford.

Surprising as it may seem, it really is much easier to keep fish healthy and happy in a 36in (90cm) long aquarium than one which is half the size.

To support the aquarium, you will need a sturdy base of some description. Special stands and cabinets are available to suit most sizes of aquarium, or perhaps you might prefer to make one yourself, with bricks cemented together, or lightweight building blocks with a blockboard top.

Wall-mounted shelves and lightweight modern cabinets, are just NOT suitable for supporting the aquarium. Remember that even the modest size of aquarium, filled with water and gravel, will weigh as much as an adult, so don't take any chances...

DO ensure that the aquarium will sit absolutely flat and level on the stand, using small packing pieces of hardboard if necessary, otherwise the water level will appear to slope from one end of the tank to the other.

Because the glass can crack if the aquarium is not supported evenly at all points, it is essential to place 2.5cm (1in) wide strips of expanded polystyrene (cut from plain ceiling tiles) all around the edge of the aquarium, where it is in contact with the stand.

NEVER try to carry the aquarium when there is any water, gravel or rocks remaining in it; not only is it very heavy, but a wet aquarium is very slippery and can so easily be dropped.

N.B. Metric sizes in this site are approximate.