Sunday, November 18, 2007

Conditioning Tanks for Fish Breeding

Spawning tank

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Though some species readily spawn in the aquarium, the eggs or fry often do not survive because of predatory parents or other fish. Often the fry die because of unfavorable, unclean water conditions. Many species that practice brood care will harm other tank mates in attempting to guard the eggs. Because of all these problems; most aquariasts who breed fish use a separate spawning tank. The spawning tank should be like the hospital tank with protected heater so the the fish are not burned; a slow-moving filter (sponge filter), so the eggs or fry are not sucked up; and good aeration. Depending on the spawning method, the spawning tank can be set up in a number of different ways.

Egg-scatterers: Because egg scatterers often eat their own eggs, the spawning tank has to be set-up so the eggs fall out of the reach of hungry parents. A 5-10 gallon tank is sufficient for spawning for most eggs scatterers.
    For egg scatterers like barbs and danios, which lay non-adhesive eggs, the spawning tank can be furnished with a substrate consisting of two layers of marbles or a nylon netting just above the tank floor. As the eggs are laid, they fall through the marbles or the netting out of the reach of the parents. After spawning is over, the eggs or the parents can be removed.

    For egg scatterers that lay adhesive eggs like tetras, the spawning tank should be furnished with a substrate. The tank should be planted with fine-leafed plants. The eggs are laid amongst plants, and adhere to the fine-leaves. The parents should be removed after spawning.

    Rainbowfish also lay adhesive eggs, however, most species spawn continuously over a period of several weeks. Thus, the eggs or the plants that the eggs are attached to, should be removed daily and placed in the rearing tank. Larger rainbowfish require a spawning tank of 20-30 gallons.
Egg-depositors: Depending on the type of egg depositor, the tank should be furnished differently.
    For those egg-depositors that care for their young, the parents can remain in the tank after spawning. Substrate spawners, depending on the species, should be given a tank furnished glass panes, broad-leafed plants, or flat stones for spawning sites. Some species such as Discus and Angelfish prefer vertical surfaces. For cavity spawners, flower pots turned on their side, coconut shells, and rocky caves are suitable spawning sites. The tank should be furnished with either live or plastic plants to give the fish a sense of security.

    Egg-depositors that do not care for their young, should be given a tank furnished with fine and broad-leafed plants, Java Moss, or artificial spawning mops. After spawning the parents or plants with the eggs should be removed. If the plants containing eggs are removed, new plants should be placed in the tank for future spawnings. Killifish eggs often develop best when they are kept in a shallow dish.
Egg-burriers: A peat-moss substrate is one of the best substrates for egg-burying species. The peat moss can be removed after spawning and placed in a plastic bag to be stored for weeks to months (depending on the species). A new peat moss substrate can be placed in the tank for further spawnings. In order to initiate hatching, the stored peat can be immersed in soft water.

Mouth-brooders: Ovophile mouth-brooders can be bred in the main aquarium because the eggs are protected in the mouth cavity. However, it is better to separate mouth-brooders with eggs because of their potentially aggressive behavior. There are no special breeding tank requirements other than the usual tank set-up for the species.

Larvophile mouth-brooders should be placed in a breeding tank because the eggs are not protected in the mouth, but laid on a surface where the are open to predators.

Nest-builders: Nest-builders should be provided with material with which to build their nests. For bubble-nest builders, fine leafed and floating plants should be provided, and the tank should have no water current to disturb the nest. Species that build nests in the substrate should be given fine gravel or sand.

Livebearers: Small livebearers can be bred in breeding traps where the newborns fall out of the reach of the mother. However, a more preferable set-up is a separate, heavily planted tank. As the female releases the young, she can be fed so that she is not to eat the fry. As soon as all the young are born, remove the mother.

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