Aeration: - essential factor to aquarium fish

As we all know rivers and lakes are the natural habits for fish and other marines. Rivers and lakes have large surface area which makes maximum provision of oxygen for fish survival possible. On the other hand aquarium is not like river or lake, it has a smaller surface area and there is limited movement of habitats.

This makes provision of alternative means of oxygen for fish to breathe important. This artificial process of providing oxygen is called aeration. It's a simple process of re-oxygenating the water in aquarium tank.

The Aerating System:

This is the series of material that increases the supply of air (thereby increasing oxygen concentration) they are:
the air pump
t-pieces
rubber tubing
clamp or regulator
diffusers or airstone

Air pumps come in different shapes and sizes but the most popular ones are tecax air pump from Taiwan together with 'dyna free, and the dragon' another popular one is super 555 from India though cheaper, but not as rugged. Occasionally available are the more expensive whisper and rens air pumps from Uk and rance respectively. Always place air pumps above the water level hooked to a non-vibrating material.

You can accomplish aeration in your aquarium tank by using the above listed aeration materials. This materials form aeration system. For small tanks all you need is to attach simple aquarium air pump to airstone by means of rubber air tube. The system will be blowing air into the water which cause motion in aquarium tank and thus provide necessary oxygen your fish needs to breathe in aquarium.
If you would like more articles on Aquariums, and Aquarium fish...come visit my new blog:
Fresh Water Aquarium

Lighting of Your Aquarium

Why Lighting?

The simplest, most economic choice of lighting is sunlight. No tech aquarium folks believe there is no substitute. For many applications, aquarium lighting demands specific technology.

When you heat something, that something's temperature goes up. At room temperature, this something will emit energy in the infrared (below red) range of light. However, hotter things emit light in the visible range (red to violet). Even hotter things may emit ultraviolet (above violet) light as well. The sun's light is yellow. So, if you need something other than yellow light, then you need aquarium lighting.

What Lighting

Manufacturers standardize the spectrum of lamps using corrected olor temperature ratings (K) and color rendering indexes (CRIs). The K part tells you what color it looks like and the CRI part tells you how much it looks like that color.

Fluorescent

Fluorescent lamps create large voltages across metal gases (fluors) in a coated tube. The electricity ionizes the gases and excites electrons in the gas. When these electrons relax, a little packet of light comes out called a photon. The coating on the tube is a material that absorbs UV light, and emits visible light. This coating largely determines the color of your lamp.

The phosphors degrade with use, and blue light intensity drops more quickly than red. So, lamps get darker and redder as time goes on. To maintain the blue and purple of a reef aquarium, lamps need to be changed at least twice a year; whereas the same aquarium may have red night lights that last a whole year.

There are only a few types of phosphors available. Many manufacturers use several coatings of different phosphors to achieve a balanced look. To achieve the most natural look, try to put as many different types of lamps in the canopy as possible. Most special bulbs accomplish the same thing as buying two daylight lamps and one cool white lamp (for example). The advantage to these special bulbs is that many people only have room for one lamp. There are exceptions to this rule and the number is growing, as some companies design aquarium lighting from the ground up instead of adapting existing technology to their needs.

The diameter of a lamp is very important. As the diameter increases, fabricating an effective reflector becomes increasingly difficult. The closer to a line source, where the diameter of the lamp is zero, the more effective a reflector will behave.

Balasts are designed for specific lamp types, and choosing a lamp also means limiting your choice of ballasts. The ballast determines the current and voltage to the lamp. A quality ballast will quickly pay for itself in reduced power bills and prolonged lamp life. Some ballasts have the option to attach a manual dimmer to the ballast. In conjunction with a timer, these ballasts can ramp light on and off to avoid the sudden firing of the lamp. Also, choosing a water proof ballast may come in handy.

Metal Halide

Metal halide lamps are essentially little fluorescent lamps on steroids. The metal halide gases are stored inside a coated quartz tube. This quartz is inside a glass shield to absorb UV light and provide a barrier if the quartz tube explodes. Instead of current flowing through the gas, the current actually arcs. This means higher temperatures and voltages. As such, metal halide lamps take a minute to start and then a few minutes to warm up. Basically, the ballast must start the arc and then vaporize everything inside the quartz sleeve. Probe start lamps have a small electrode inside the quartz tube to assist the firing the lamp. Pulse start lamps rely on the ballast to pulse the quartz tube to fire the lamp. Metal halide ballasts cannot be dimmed, unlike other types of lighting.

The color of the lamp is determined by the makeup of the halides and the phosphors coating the quartz tube. Pulse start lamps have a higher CRI, because the ballast is more gentle on the gases inside the quartz tube. Color ranges are nearly identical to fluorescent tubes; however, there are more options along the way. Metal halide lamps should last six months to a year. The blues in a metal halide lamp degrade very quickly. The most efficient metal halide lamps are near daylight. Because of this, many reefs rely on metal halide lamps for the daylight colors and fluorescent lamps for the purple and blue.

LEDs

Light emitting diodes have come leaps and bounds recently. By 2008, new technology is scheduled to outperform all others (lumens per watt, lumens per dollar). There are still a handful of issues with LEDs, namely startup cost and color options. LEDs emit light in a very narrow range of colors, and the exact range of that color really depends on the batch and bin of the manufacturer. Also, initial costs of LED's are quite high. Although, an individual LED is expected to have a lifetime of about ten years.

A handful of manufacturers sell LED lighting for the aquarium, but the nature of the wiring demands that an entire array of LEDs be replaced if a single burns out. And if you don't replace the single array, then the others are not far behind. Thus, the benefits of LEDs are completely avoided. Basically, to save about 30% of the manufacturer's costs, they ask you to replace $100 of LEDs when you really only need $5 replaced. A difficult fact to swallow when you're already paying five to ten times as much as another technology, for the same amount of lighting.

One advantage of using LED lighting is the ability to program lighting intensity. The moon cycle, the seasons, cloud cover, sunrise, sunset, and anything else can be programmed into the lighting routine. This possibilities are huge with LEDs.

Ventilation

Lights are not 100% efficient. Therefore, lights create heat. This heat must be removed. If no efforts at ventilation are made, the the heat escapes via radiation. This may be adequate if the lamps are efficient and were designed to operate at elevated temperatures. Otherwise, ventilation may be required.

Simply drilling an array of holes above the lamps allows heat to escape through convection. This is adequate for most applications. However, often active ventilation is required. This involves placing a fan at either an input, an output, or both. If you are designing your own system, the ventilation that cools the lights can also be used to cool the aquarium water.

The Best Options

If you decide on the number of lumens you need, and then work backwards to how many lamps you need, then metal halide comes out on top. A metal halide lamp run by a pulse start electronic ballast puts out more lumens per watt and more lumens per dollar. However, in the next three months, the lamp's luminosity decreases by 35%. In the same time, a T5 lamp's luminosity will only decrease by about 6%. Also, consider that a quality reflector will direct about 80% of a metal halide lamps luminosity to the aquarium. A quality reflector for a T5 will direct over 90% of the light back. Notice, that the reflectivity of a reflector does not determine the amount of light reflected, but rather the probability an incident photon will be reflected. When you run the numbers again, T5 lighting comes out on top, by about 15%. Measurements with a light meter agree.

For a reef aquarium, most people want at least one metal halide. The real reason: metal halides look really cool. Reef aquariums usually have strong currents and surface waves. Metal halide lamps will make your reef sparkle, just like a real reef. Also, a single metal halide can provide a decent spectrum, whereas you really need at least two different color fluorescent lamps.

Compact fluorescent lamps provide a great alternative to T5 and metal halide lighting for smaller tanks. Reflectors must reflect light from more than one tube, which means that compact fluorescent lamps won't perform as well as the corresponding straight tube lamps. However, bulb costs are lower, as a compact fluorescent lamp is essentially a longer lamp that is bent around.

By 2008, Atlanta Aquascapes plans on releasing a new LED lighting system for aquariums. This system will outperform all other lighting in terms of light output, light quality, and long term costs.

If you are looking for an economic option, then your local hardware store is the best place to start. Flat white paint has a reflectivity of about 95%, which is quite high. If you still have your high school geometry book, then you should be able to make your own reflector as well. Just find something relatively sturdy that you can cut with a razor. Watch out for silver materials when making a reflector. Some are excellent reflectors, and others are terrible.

Designing Your Own Aquarium

Aquarium Setup and Design

Dimensions

Tank dimensions are determined by the individuals inside your aquarium. Some fish require swimming space, and the length of the tank may be important. Some corals require intense light, and the height of the tank may be important. Some plants grow like bushes, and the width of the tank may be important. Also, the surface area of the bottom influences how much substrate and lighting you will need. Finally, the volume of the tank determines the flow rate through the circulation systems and filtration systems.

Lighting:

Choose lamps based upon the luminosity (lumens), the color (spectra), and power (watts). The best choice for your lighting will match the needs of any photosynthetic individuals' spectra, provide the most luminosity, and consume the least power. Both fluorescent and metal halide lamps excite electrons bound to certain chemicals. When these electrons relax, the lamp emits light of distinct wavelengths. There are very few options for these chemicals. As a result, most lamps contain varying amounts of the same chemicals.

Fluorescent tubes emit light from the surface of a long cylinder. Avoid spirals or other strange shapes when purchasing a fluorescent lamp. Choose parabolic reflectors designed for lamps of your radius. Compact fluorescent lamps will never work as well as the equivalent straight tubes. Metal halide lamps emit light from a line source, which in turn excites a small cylinder to emit light. Because of this complexity, reflectors are designed for very specific metal halide lamps types. If possible, decide upon a particular lamp make and model and then choose the best reflector for that lamp.

All lamps are designed to operate at specific temperature. Achieving this may involve adding ventilation to your lighting or purchasing a chiller. If all else fails, you may try redirecting your HVAC to supply air, return air, or both.

As to date, the most efficient lighting available is german made T5 fluorescent lamps under parabolic reflectors. The spectra are also very impressive. American LED manufacturers have made leaps and bounds, with the introduction of new designs that come within 15% of the efficiency of T5 lamps in 2006. LEDs are rarely chosen because of high initial costs; however, long run costs of LED systems are significantly lower.

Metal halides are an attractive option for reef aquariums because they are almost a point source. If you disturb the water's surface, then a metal halide will sparkle, similar to how sunlight appears on the bottom of a pool on a bright, windy day. Keep in mind that only the light from the metal halide will sparkle, and choose your color spectrum accordingly if you also will use fluorescent lamps.

Filtration

Mechanical filters remove material from the water column by physically separating the material from the rest of the water. This separation allows easy removal of this material. There are several methods of mechanical filtration: sudden decreases in the linear velocity of water as the flow passes a drain, trapping the material in another, inert material, or foam fractionation (protein skimmer). Mechanical filters can easily be automated to minimize maintenance.

Chemical filters either selectively partition chemicals onto a surface or react with chemicals in the water column. Chemical filtration requires regular replacing or recharging of media.

Biological filtration is, in essence an integration of chemical and mechanical filtration via individuals within your aquarium, or connected to the aquarium through plumbing.

Protein skimmers are best suited for fish only tanks. Natural reefs rely on tiny particles and individuals to increase biomass. Protein skimmers are extremely efficient at removing tiny particles from the water column. As such, protein skimmers often starve a reef aquarium.

UV sterilizers are work horses in many setups. They really belong under lighting, but are considered filters by most. UV sterilizers destroy some of the nucleic acids that pass through. If enough nucleic acids are destroyed, then the individual cannot reproduce and is sterile. Use UV sterilizers with care, as they can do more harm than good.

Circulation and Aeration

The water in the aquarium can be thought of as two systems: the bulk and the surface. Water circulation is best accomplished with external pumps. Placing electric motors inside the water column also places electric fields inside the water column, which can distress a large number of individuals.

To achieve similar water quality throughout the aquarium requires proper circulation. Not only is volumetric flow (GPH, LPH) important, but the linear velocity (mph, m/s) of flow is also important. The velocity of water determines what reaches your filter in the first place, and individuals within the aquarium experience linear velocity, not volumetric flow. Choose pumps on the inside diameter of the suction and pressure side, the power (watts), and the volumetric flow (GPH). Be careful, different manufacturers may report their numbers in different units or at different head heights. I've found that each manufacturer has several basic designs that they scale their models from. From each line, a single model will perform most efficiently. Rarely will each model in a line outperform all models in a competing line.

Reef aquariums often require pulse flow. Placing a mechanical device in line can change the direction and/or intensity of circulation. Programmable devices can fine tune the on/off cycles to your liking, but ensure you purchase a pump that is designed for frequent stopping and starting.

The surface provides gas exchange with the surroundings. If the surface of the water is not turned over, then undesirable individuals may grow thin colonies on the surface of the water. These colonies may inhibit gas exchange and block lighting to the rest of the aquarium. Make sure you have something that only filters the surface of the water called an overflow.

Aeration may be achieved entirely with good air flow over a clean surface of water. If photosynthesis increases the partial pressure of oxygen above that of the surroundings, then aeration may not be required. In such cases, separating the aquarium from the surrounding air may improve the water quality.

Ventilation

An unsealed aquarium exchanges all gases including water with the surroundings. Individuals in the water and owner dosing impart a concentration gradient upon a number of chemicals within the water. Blowing or sucking air across the surface of the water will decrease this concentration gradient. Increased evaporation will also cool water.

Ventilation offers an economic opportunity to dose an aquarium. Evaporation removes only water, but leaves the dissolved chemicals behind The evaporated water can be replaced by water high in nutrients for plants or a reef. By increasing the evaporation rate, the maximum rate of dosing is also increased.

Substrate

The substrate at the bottom of the aquarium can serve many purpose other than aesthetics. In planted aquariums, the substrate provides rooted plants with chemicals not available to individuals in the water column. If you have an undergravel filter, then the substrate doubles as a filter media. If you do not have an undergravel filter, then the electrochemistry of ion exchange changes dramatically with deeper substrates. Because of this, many chemical reactions take place which would not take place if water circulated through the substrate. For example, iron uptake by plant roots becomes easier, but so does the production of methane. In a reef aquarium, the substrate may become a host to a variety of individuals and acts as biological filtration. Similarly, care must be taken in a reef aquarium as deep sand beds have very low reduction-oxidation potentials. Very scary chemistry can build up and release all at once.

The Elements

Oxygen is the most important molecule in water. Proper aeration, photosynthetic individuals, compressed gas, or ozone generators may be employed to elevate oxygen levels. The last two methods can overdose with oxygen or ozone and elevate the reduction-oxidation potential too much, essentially rusting individuals in your tank. Ensure that if a control system fails then the maximum dosage rate will not be toxic.

Carbon comes in many forms. Plants need carbon to thrive. The simplest type of carbon added to aquariums is carbon dioxide. Many people buy pressurized CO2 in cylinders, culture yeast to ferment, or make it electrochemically, then plumb this to the circulation system. A few plants actually use bicarbonate instead of carbonic acid, which means you can actually fertilize with baking soda. Another option is to overstock the tank with fish, who will provide an abundance of CO2. This option requires a hefty filter and more frequent water changes. Reef aquariums often use carbon dioxide to elevate calcium levels in reactors. This addition must be offset to avoid low pH, and magnesium sulfate is an attractive option. Elevated carbonate concentration (with calcium) in a reef allows individuals to precipitate calcium carbonate, a necessity of many individuals. Adequate turnover of the water, ventilation, protein skimming, and surface disturbances decrease the difference between carbon dioxide pressure in the air and in the water.

Nitrogen is essential for every aquarium. Ultimately, nitrogen is important to make proteins, nucleic acids, and other biomolecules. The source may be an amino acid or a nitrogenous base, but more than likely it is either reduced or oxidized nitrogen. Common reduced nitrogen compounds are ammonia, ammonium, and urea. Reduced nitrogen should be kept at low levels. Oxidized nitrogen is commonly referred to nitrites and nitrates, but most test kits fortunately measure other chemicals as well. Nitrogen should be present in your aquarium's water in at least one form. Potassium nitrate is an extremely economic option. Biological filters, quality protein skimmers, and chemical absorbants are effective at removing nitrogen almost entirely from the water colony.

Calcium is important to all aquatic life. Quality plant fertilizers will ensure planted aquariums have plenty of calcium. For a reef aquarium, calcium is quickly consumed. Calcium reactors are effective at maintaining calcium in the water column, but pH must be offset as discussed under carbon. Calcium chloride does not affect pH, and chloride is reef safe. Saturating top off water with a mixture of calcium chloride and calcium carbonate should maintain both calcium and carbonate levels. Calcium salts can precipitate in the water column and test should be performed before adding calcium to the aquarium.

Potassium is the single most overlooked chemical in a planted aquarium. Plants must either take in new potassium of destroy old tissue to continue growing. There are no known negative issues with elevated potassium.

Iron is a tricky one. Iron may be the oldest chemical of life, and cells use iron to maintain the proper reduction-oxidation potential. Iron exists in two states in the aquarium: Fe(II) is missing two electrons and Fe(III) is missing three electrons. Fe(III) is not readily water soluble, so individuals must usually add an electron to Fe(III) before placing it into service. Adding electrons becomes easier as the reduction-oxidation potential decreases. For many planted aquariums, the substrate serves largely for cation exchange between the water and the plants' roots to aid in iron metabolism. Anything from (perfume free) kitty litter to expensive substrates taylor made and color matched will work, depending on your standards of aesthetics. UV sterilizers quickly remove all iron from the water column.

Magnesium in water is depleted slowly by reefs and is essential to a reef's growth. Buying a calcium additive with magnesium may be enough, or you can buy magnesium chloride which is readily soluble in water or magnesium sulfate.

Iodide and strontium are extremely important for most invertebrates, especially reef invertebrates. Typical levels are very low. Concentrations can be maintained by comprehensive additives or by buying plant cell culture tested compounds in bulk.

Phosphate biochemistry is extremely intricate. Phosphates are required for all life, but are typically limited in reef and marine aquariums to avoid algae growth. Planted aquariums require phosphorous, and its exclusion has become popular. However, phosphate buffers are frequently employed in growing aquatic plants on a large scale. Tap water usually requires enough phosphate for the planted aquarium, or you can dose with different salts depending on your tank's pH. Chemical media, downforce protein skimmers, and biological filters remove phosphate.

Silicates are a favorite of diatoms. In either freshwater or saltwater, elevated silicates results in algae. Diatoms can extract silica from glass. Chemical media and downforce skimmers remove silica. Often, the same media removes phosphates

Chloride is extremely important to freshwater plants. Chloride is readily available in most water sources. Do not confuse with chloramine, which is also available in most water sources but is dangerous.

Conclusions

In general try to avoid taking material out of the aquarium. An excellent example would be to run foam fractionation (skimmer) on a sump, send the top fraction to a phytoplankton culture, have the phytoplankton overflow into a refugium, have the refugium empty into the display tank, which overflows into the sump. Each separate container would have its own lighting, substrate, and circulation. In this way, you really never have to add anything to the tank except water. The only cost is power, water, and lamps. Additives can be homemade by removing excess algae and aragonite and grinding them in a mortar and pestle.

Another example is a planted aquarium. A single display tank, a quality canister filter, a reverse flow under gravel filter, and fluorite ore substrate takes care of itself. Just replace evaporated water with water rich in potassium and phosphates, over feed the fish, and replace the lamps and filter floss twice a year. Plants take care of the rest.

Also, avoid adding extra heat to the aquarium. Use external pumps instead of powerheads. Acrylic aquariums can easily be machined to accept standard plumbing fittings. Make sure your plumbing has long radius turns and clean walls. Cooling your lights helps prolong lamp life and lowers water temperature. Place your heater inline with circulation plumbing. Make sure the entire tank is circulated. Dead spots make scary chemistry.

Many of the products available are marketed very, very well but provide little advantage if any to a less expensive alternative. So keep your wits about you and do your homework. In the end, your pets will be happier, your aquarium will look better, and you will spend less money.

Atlanta Aquascapes

Article Source: http://www.articlefishtalk.com

Planted Aquarium and Substrate

Two concepts are very important when choosing a substrate for the planted aquarium: circulation and ion exchange.

Circulatoin

Circulation in the substrate can be totally passive, meaning that nothing is done to move water across the plants' roots. A popular option is to heat the bottom of the aquarium in an effort to move water from the bottom of the tank to the top. The third option is to actually plumb water to below the substrate and force circulation, known as undergravel filters.

Without any circulation in the substrate, an extremely low reduction-oxidation potential develops. Oxygen is readily depleted, and there is no way of replacing the oxygen except diffusion. Life in the substrate starts relying on chemical reactions very foreign to the ones above the substrate. If the substrate is too fine, then the products of these chemical reactions may buildup inside the substrate and burst to the surface all at once. In open waters, gases belch through the mud constantly, but the reduction-oxidation potential is safe because of such large water volume and surface area. If this happens in an aquarium, then the reduction-oxidation potential of the aquarium water will drop suddenly. The solution is to simply use coarse gravel, or to rely on technology to circulate the water.

Heating the bottom of the aquarium circulates water through the roots and also hides the heater from plain view. Giving your plants hot feet is thought to improve their health by many hobbyists; however, there is no reason other than speculation to believe so. Heating cables are often very expensive, especially compared to other styles.

Traditionally, the undergravel filter bubbled air up a tube connected to an empty grated box below the substrate. As the air rises, water rises with it. This water then leaves the tube, and water is drawn in from the grated box to replace that water. This filtration method was attractive because is was so inexpensive. Any debris in the water column eventually ended up on the bottom, which could be siphoned out of the aquarium. To achieve better turnover, use a powerhead to move water up the tube.

For the planted aquarium, the reverse flow under gravel filter (RUGF) may be the single most overlooked option. The real advantage to a RUGF is that water can be plumbed from the surface and bulk to under the gravel with ease. Once plants take hold, then debris from the aquarium becomes fertilizers for the plants. Combined with a canister filter, you have the best filter setup for the planted aquarium. There is no maintenance, no expensive gravels, and nearly upkeep costs. The water stays perfectly still while still being turned over every 2 hours or so. The reduction-oxidation potential in the substrate still drops below that in the water, but the difference is nearly zero. If you use a setup like this, then dosing with iron fertilizers is a must, as plants' roots won't be as efficient at iron uptake. The biggest downfall is that manufacturers who offer a RUGF for planted aquariums charge big bucks, and making your own can be challenging and unattractive.

Ion exchange

A plant's health relies on the substrate to exchange cations with both its roots and the water. So, a setup with no circulation with the bulk of the water must have an extremely high cation exchange capability. Also, without circulation in the roots, organic substrates rich in nutrients can be used, or actual plant soils and fertilizers can be placed in the substrate. Just make sure that the substrate is never disturbed and has plenty of larger rocks throughout.

With the hot feet option, substrates are pretty much the same as without any circulation. However, if you use nutrient rich substrates with a heating cable, then expect nutrients to find their way into the water column. Make sure you have some plants that take their nutrients from the water column to avoid algae blooms.

Undergravel filters require larger substrate, and avoid using too much organic material. There are a variety of attractive inert gravels out there made for the planted aquarium. Fluorite is an excellent option, and I like to mix about a cup of peat per 5 gallons of fluorite with an undergravel filter. But, I've also had great success with regular aquarium gravel, nothing else.

Best Bet

Plumb an overflow to a canister filter, to a heater, to a carbon dioxide reactor, to an undergravel filter. With this setup, the water chemistry throughout the entire setup is almost identical. The tank circulates top to bottom, evenly. Adding small amount of fertilizers frequently will be required for good growth, and this can be automated easily.

Substrate choice is largely aesthetics in this setup, so expensive gravels may look better and be the right choice, or that mixture of lavender and hot pink gravel may be just. Although substrates with high cation exchange capabilities will outperform regular gravel, this can be offset by increasing volumetric flow under the gravel.

Atlanta Aquascapes

Article Source: http://www.articlefishtalk.com

Caring Betta Fish

10 Tips to caring for your Betta Fish

Betta fish, also called Siamese fighting fish. are one of the most popular types of fish found in homes across the world. Their vibrant color and active lifestyle seems to draw in fish fanatics as well as those who have never had fish before. Betta’s are relatively easy to care for and their low maintenance is particularly appealing to people who would like to have fish but don’t have a lot of time to care for them.

Once you bring your Betta’s home you should begin to familiarize yourself with their movements and typical behavior patterns. When you look at your fish after you’ve had them for awhile you’ll know if something is wrong, if they are not feeling well, or if the water in their bowl is not in the best condition simply by being observant.

1. Make sure the jar or bowl that you keep your Betta in is big enough so that he can swim around and not bump or tear his fins or scales. Also be sure there is plenty of surface area so that he can get enough oxygen.

2. Your Betta will thrive in the cleanest water that you can provide for him. He does not require a filtration system, but you should change out a third of his water every three days so it stays fresh and clean and keeps your finned friend from getting bacterial or fungal infections. Aged water (water that has set out for twenty four hours) is what should be used to replace the old water.

3. Do not put your Betta fish with other Betta’s. They are called Siamese fighting fish because they are, in fact, fighting fish. They will tear at one another, often causing the death of at least one fish before they stop. Betta’s can be coupled with algae eaters, guppies, or corydorus catfish safely.

4. Use a turkey baster to clean small particles of uneaten food or debris from the bottom of the bowl or jar. Allowing this debris to sit at the bottom of the jar will cause the water to become cloudy, unsanitary, and to smell awful.

5. The PH of your tank should be at exactly 7.0. You can get a PH testing kit at your pet store along with solutions to minimize or increase the PH of your water.

6. When you clean the plants, rocks, or decorations in the bowl you should never use soap on them. It’s very hard to completely rinse all soap from these items and the soap residue can harm or even kill your Betta. Instead, use warm water and an abrasive brush to clean his things.

7. Keep your Betta tank, jar, or bowl covered! Your Beta will jump and you don’t want him to end up flopping on the tabletop! Keeping the water level at least two inches from the top of the tank should also cut down on this problem.

8. Your Betta is a meat eater and likes live foods, such as brine shrimp the best. Frozen bloodworms are also a good choice for your meat eater. Most Betta fish will happily eat the Betta pellets sold at most pet stores. For a special treat every now and again you should offer some live food! You’ll have fun watching him eat it up!

9. Do not decorate your Betta bowl with rocks or marbles that may cause your Betta to get stuck between or under them. Be sure that they are a flat smooth surface that provides no risk to the health of your fish.

10. Remember that your fish is a living, breathing responsibility. You need to feed, clean, and care for your Betta just like you would any other pet. If he’s sick take him to the vet, if he’s hungry feed him, if his home is dirty, clean it.
That’s it! These ten tips for caring for your Betta fish will have you well on your way to keeping a healthy fish.

Article Source: http://www.articlefishtalk.com

Keeping Arowana

Data Sheet

Scientific Name: Scleropages Formosus
Other Names: Arawana, Dragon Fish
Family: Osteoglossidae
Origin: Asia, Australia, Africa,
Adult Size: 90cm (55-58 inches)
Social: Predatory fish that will eat up smaller fishes. Highly territorial
Lifespan: 10-20 years.
Tank Level: mid-top dweller.
Minimum Tank Size: At least 3 times the width of your Arowana, and width same as Arowana length.
Diet:
Eats anything - live crickets, tapdoles, small frogs, small fishes, shrimps etc.
Breeding: Mouthbrooder
Care: Easy - Hardly fish
Ideal pH: 6.5-7
Temperature: 75-85 F (24-29C)
Tank setup: No plants or rocks recommended as this fish needs lots of space and plants and rocks may get in their way.
Sexing:
The male's mouth is wider and deeper.

Description:

In this family of fishes, the head is bony and the elongate body is covered by large, heavy scales, with a mosaic pattern of canals. The dorsal and the anal fins have soft rays and are long based, while the pectoral and ventral fins are small. The name 'bony tongues' is derived from a toothed bone on the floor of the mouth, the 'tongue', equipped with teeth that bite against teeth on the roof of the mouth.

Habitat/Care:

In the wild, the Arowanas prefers to stay in shallow waters (above five feet deep), near riverbanks and in shaded areas. Arowanas prefer these areas not because they are avoiding the elements, but because insects are plentiful in shaded areas and these are their main source of food.
Mixing with other fishes:

Medium to Large bottom feeders are ideal tank mates for the Arowana. The Arowana will leave these bottom feeders alone. Other peaceful large fish may be safety kept with Arowana. Take care not to include fin-nippers with the Arowana. Smaller fish that will fit into the Arowana mouth will be eaten.

Arowanas are generally highly territorial and will not tolerate another Arowana in a small tank. In a large open pond, however, it has been noted that several Arowanas can be safety kept together. Wikipedia recommends that 5-6 Arowanas should be kept together in a tank instead of 2-3 as when in a group, their aggressiveness tends to be subdued.

Diet:

Arowana prefer live food or at the very least floating food. They will generally not eat from the bottom of the tank. To this end keeping your Arowana with a suitable bottom feeder may be a good idea.

These foods can include: worms, crickets, grasshoppers, locus, fly, small frogs, small fish (limited quantities) and shrimps with shells. Some Arowana may take floating fish food.

Some foods help to promote a good colour in your fish. Prawns contain cerotine which helps bring out the red and gold colours of the Arowana fish. It is recommended however to maintain a varied and balanced diet for any Arowana Fish.

Feeding patterns effect both size and colour of your Arowana Fish. Over feeding can make your fish grow faster however this may adversely affect both colour and long term health of the fish. Since the size, colour and health of your fish are all very important, you are advised not to regularly overfeed any Arowana Fish.

Folklore:

For the Chinese, the dragon is a symbol of good luck and prosperity. In the eyes of the Chinese, the dragon fish has the appearance and majesty of the Chinese Dragon, especially the scales - it resembles the scales of a Dragon.

When a Chinese businessman purchased one of these fishes, then strike a big fortune, the rumor mills were working overtime that he attribute his good luck to owning one of these fish. Soon, demand for this fish rocketed as many others hope that keeping a dragon fish will bring them luck.

There are 3 types of Asian Arowana - the Red, Gold and Green. For the Chinese, Red is a lucky color, as evidenced by the large amount of red used during Chinese New Year. This makes the Red dragon fish in high demand, and prices for a good quality red can easily fetch around SG$8,888/=. Gold is also considered lucky. However, it is surprising that Green variety is not very popular and is consider unlucky, especially in Cantonese speaking countries like Hong Kong, Shenzhen and Guangzhou. The Cantonese who keep a green Arowana in their home and often gamble are said to "shee tou meen cheang cheang" (lost till their faces turn green).

Breeding:

Between 30 to 40 Arowanas between the ages of five and seven, half of them male, half of them female were released in a pond. They were left in the pond to allow them to pair themselves off, while the fish farmers observed from afar with binocular.

After sometime (between one and six months): compatible male and female Arowanas couple by themselves. However, this does not mean that with 30 to 40 Arowanas, you will see 15 to 20 pairs. On the contrary, it is sometimes impossible to get even one pair.

The farmers continued to keep a close watch on the pair. The males are mouth brooders, and will keep the eggs and fry in the mouth. Sometime later, the male was seen releasing young Arowanas from his mouth for between three and five minutes before drawing them back into his mouth again. At this stage, a net was dropped into the pond to segregate the couple and their young from the other Arowanas. After the young were free-swimming, they were netted and kept in separate tanks to grown individually, feeding on bloodworms.

Observations have shown that the female Arowana spawns once a year and each successful spawn produces between 30 and 80 young.

Illness:

Basically, the Arowana is a very hardy fish; even for first time fish owners. However, due to unsuitable water conditions, poor diet, high nitrate levels, etc., illnesses like bulging eye, cloudy eye, gillc-urling, external parasites, fin rot, dropsy and internal bleeding may occur. Watch out for the last two symptoms as they are likely to be fatal.

In all cases, raise the water temperature to 34 degree Celsius and add about 0.03% salt to the water (i.e. 300g of salt for 100litres of water). It is often helpful to add a wide spectrum medicine with anti-bacterial or anti-parasitic compounds. Medicines like tetracycline, acfriflavine may also help.

One point to note: do not be too concerned over fin rot caused by fighting. Even in cases where extensive damage to the whole tail has been done, the recovery period is only a matter of weeks.
Variants:

* Asian Arowana - are the most expensive of all because they are near-extinct . They are protected species and mainly from Thailand , Sumatra and Malaysia . Asian Arowana have three main colors - Red , Gold and Green.
* Australia Arowana - originated from Australia and they look similar to Asian Arowana . Australia Arowana got two types - Pearl and Spotted Arowana . Both looked the same except for the scales and colors. There are even Red or Gold Pearl Arowana.
* Silver Arowana - is the most common Arowana. It is also the cheapest. Silver Arowana have long fin and tail with its whole body silver in color. It can grow up to a very large size about 49 inches!
* Black Arowana - is the same as Silver Arowana but its fin and tail are black-color. Black Arowana are harder to raise than Silver Arowana.

Article Source: http://www.articlefishtalk.com

Tips: Setting Up New Tank

Setting up

• Set the tank up at least a few days before buying fish. This will give the water time to stabilise and allow time for checking that everything is working properly.

• Once the tank has been positioned, a background of some sort can be fitted. As well as being more appealing than seeing the wall behind the tank, a background will make fish feel more secure because they are not 'exposed' on all sides.

• Wash the substrate material thoroughly before adding to the tank. This can be achieved by washing half a bucket of gravel/sand at a time under running water. Stir the gravel or sand around by hand, pouring off the water until it runs clear.
  If you are intending to use undergravel filtration (UGF), you will of course need to position the undergravel plates before adding the gravel.

• Decide on a suitable location for the heater and filter (depending on type). Remember that the heater will need a reasonable flow of water passing around it to work efficiently. Most modern heater-stats are completely submersible - the heating element part MUST be completely below water level.

• Rinse decor and add to the tank (bogwood may actually require soaking for a few weeks to avoid leaching which can cause heavy discolouration of the water). Position any rocks, etc. carefully to ensure that there is no risk of them toppling over. Use the decor to hide the equipment in the tank to give a more natural look.

• When you are happy with the layout, you can begin to add water. This is probably easier with a hose pipe rather than buckets, but in either case, try to add water gently (e.g. by directing it onto a rock or a dish placed in the tank) to avoid stirring up the substrate. Fresh tap water should always be dechlorinated before use.

• If you are adding live plants, it may be easiest to fill the tank three-quarters full and add the plants at this stage.

• Position a thermometer in an easily readable position.

• Check everything is satisfactory and then switch on the heater and filter. You can also position the lid and switch on the light at this stage.

• Run the tank for a few days - check that the heater, filter and light are working properly. Check the temperature regularly and adjust the heater/thermostat as necessary.

• The water may be a bit cloudy at first but it should clear in a day or so.

Tips: Buying the Tank and Equipment

• Never buy the tank and fish on the same day. Although it may be tempting to go home with several appealing fish, some patience and restraint is called for initially.

• If your space and budget allows, go for a larger tank. Small tanks are often sold as "ideal for the beginner", but this is not really true. Larger tanks are more stable in terms of their water chemistry, temperature, etc. Conditions will change more gradually in a larger volume of water, so things are much less likely to go wrong suddenly. A 3 foot long tank of around 100 litres/20-25 gallons is probably a good size tank to begin with.

• Unless you are buying a complete setup (e.g. the Juwel aquarium packages), you need to select the right equipment for your tank. A reputable dealer should be able to help you with this, but it is helpful to have some advance knowledge of what is required.
  Basically this means a filter, heater, a lid with lighting, 'substrate' (gravel or sand), backing material and other decor such as rocks, wood and real or plastic plants.
  Once set up, you will need additional accessories such as a water conditioner, net, test kits, etc.

Tips: Buying and Adding Fish

• Never buy fish from a tank where any dead or dying fish are visible.

• Observe fish carefully before buying. Avoid any with damaged fins or gills.

• When adding fish to the tank, allow the bag to float in the tank for at least 15 minutes to equalise temperature.

• Add only a few fish initially - otherwise they will suffer serious effects of "New Tank Syndrome" due to Cycling.

• Feed lightly, this will help to minimise pollution during the unstable period as the tank 'matures'. Overfeeding is one of the most common mistakes made by beginners to the hobby. Add food in small amounts and watch while the fish eat it. Then add a little more and so on, stopping as soon as the fish lose interest or have consumed a reasonable amount.

• Consider setting up a quarantine tank for new stock.

Standard Size & Capacities for Fish Tank

The links below detail the main standard tank sizes which are available in the UK and the US, and which may also correspond to those available in other parts of the world. Remember that nominal capacities quoted for tanks are greater than the actual volume of water, due to the normal fill level being an inch or two from the top, depth of substrate and bogwood, rocks, etc used as decor. The volume may therefore be more accurately determined when filling the tank initially.

The stocking levels quoted have been based on two different systems which are used. The first is based on the volume of water required to support each fish. The second system is based on surface area of the tank, which, as it represents the area available for oxygen to dissolve into the water, is considered by some to be a useful indicator of maximum stocking levels. With this system, a deeper tank with the same base dimensions cannot hold more fish.

Remember, these are only guidelines, which work reasonably well for general community tanks as a rough guide, and a certain amount of common sense must be applied - you can't keep two 10" fish in a 20 gallon tank for instance! It is also sensible to understock the tank to allow a safety margin - it will be much easier to keep the fish healthy in a lightly stocked tank, as well as reducing the amount of filter maintenance and water changes that need to be done.

Standard UK Tank Capacities and Stocking Levels

The guidelines for stocking levels in the UK are usually based on either 1" of fish per UK gallon of tank water up to six months, and up to a max of 2" of fish per gallon thereafter, or calculated from 1" of fish per 12 square inches of surface area (note that this is not the same as 12 inches square!). Using the first guideline, your stocking capacity in total inches of fish length is equivalent to the volume in UK gallons below, or twice that as a max in a mature tank. The stocking levels based on surface area are quoted in the table - note that these usually give a higher number (except for tall tanks) than the volume calculation, and should be considered a maximum.

The tank capacities below have been calculated allowing for a fill level 1" from the top, and a 1" depth of substrate.

Tank Size	Imp gal	US gal	Litres	Max. inches of fish based on 1" of fish per 12 sq." of surface area
18x12x12" (45x30x30cm)	7.5	9	34	18
24x12x12" (60x30x30cm)	10	12	45	24
24x12x15" (60x30x38cm)	13	16	59	24
24x12x18" (60x30x45cm)	16	19	72	24
36x12x15" (90x30x38cm)	20	24	89	36
36x12x18" (90x30x45cm)	24	29	108	36
36x15x18" (90x38x45cm)	30	36	137	48
48x12x15" (120x30x38cm)	26	31	119	48
48x12x18" (120x30x45cm)	32	38	144	48
48x15x18" (120x38x45cm)	40	48	182	60
48x18x24" (120x45x60cm)	65	79	297	72
48x24x24" (120x60x60cm)	87	105	396	96
60x15x18" (150x38x45cm)	50	60	228	75
60x18x18" (150x45x45cm)	59	71	270	90
60x24x24" (150x60x60cm)	109	131	495	120
72x15x18" (180x38x45cm)	60	72	274	90
72x18x18" (180x45x45cm)	72	86	324	108
72x24x24" (180x60x60cm)	131	157	594	144
84x24x24" (210x60x60cm)	153	183	693	168
96x24x24" (240x60x60cm)	174	210	792	192

Standard US Tank Capacities and Stocking Levels

The guidelines for stocking levels in the US are usually based on either 1" of fish per gallon of tank water, or calculated from 1" of fish per 12 square inches of surface area (note that this is not the same as 12 inches square!). Using the first guideline, your stocking capacity in total inches of fish length is equivalent to the volume in US gallons below. The stocking levels based on surface area are quoted in the table - note that these usually give a higher number (except for tall tanks) than the volume calculation, and should be considered a maximum.

Dimensions (LxWxH)	Volume in US gallons/type	Volume in Liters	Max. inches of fish based on 1" of fish per 12 sq." of surface area
12x6x8" (30x15x20cm)	2.5 mini	9	6"
16x8x10" (40x20x25cm)	5	16	10"
20x10x12" (50x25x30cm)	10	38	15"
24x12x12" (60x30x30cm)	15	57	24"
20x10x18" (50x25x45cm)	15 high	57	15"
24x12x16" (60x30x40cm)	20 high	76	24"
30x12x12" (75x30x30cm)	20 long	76	30"
24x12x20" (60x30x50cm)	25	95	24"
30x12x18" (75x30x45cm)	29	110	30"
36x12x16" (90x30x40cm)	30	113	36"
36x18x12" (90x45x30cm)	30 breeder	113	54"
48x13x12" (120x33x30cm)	33 long	125	52"
30x12x22" (75x30x22cm)	37	140	30"
36x12x20" (90x30x50cm)	38	144	36"
36x18x16" (90x45x40cm)	40 breeder	151	54"
48x13x16" (120x33x40cm)	40 long	151	52"
36x12x24" (90x30x60cm)	45	170	36"
36x18x18" (90x45x45cm)	50	189	54"
48x13x20" (120x33x50cm)	55	208	52"
36x18x24" (90x45x60cm)	65	246	54"
48x18x20" (120x45x50cm)	75	284	72"
48x18x24" (120x45x60cm)	90	340	72"
48x24x24" (120x60x60cm)	120	454	96"
72x18x22" (180x45x55cm)	125	473	108"
72x18x28" (180x45x70cm)	150	567	108"
72x24x24" (180x60x60cm)	180	680	144"

Acknowledgement: Thanks to Bill Kramer, OH, for info on standard US tanks sizes.